Ok, my last half shaft question b4 we tear into this puppy:
Looking at all the labor involved, is it best to go ahead and replace both?
A mechanic I talked to recommended that, as he said if one went the other is soon to follow...
Is that anyone's experience here? What do you folks recommend?

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

Always replaced ONLY the bad 1. Why replace a good part that has lasted 28+ years.

But swapped the good one to the other side & installed the replacement 1 back to the remaining godd 1's previous side.

Total labor should be 2-2.5 hrs!

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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
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44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Hmm, interesting. swap the remaining one to the failed side... cool, reverses the stress on the joints... makes sense... unless failure of the boot is indicated by severe cracking. then going all out with both new makes the most sense.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Ha! For a guy like you maybe! I am bettin the whole weekend is shot for me...

I do wonder if swapping is a good idea or if it might just blow out a part that is mighty old and has been runnin one way forever, then to switch all that stress...

But you guys would know; I do trust your advice.

Thanks!

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

This job is kinda a pain. If you are working on your garage floor, I'd replace both at the same time. Once the diff is opened up, you've done most of the work.

Think about it, if the half shafts are both at the same age (approx 25yo) and have never been replaced or serviced, they are both going to need replacing at some point. The rubber just doesn't last that long. If cash is really really tight, and you have the time (which I don't) then replace one. If you find yourself strapped for time and you have a spare $140, I'd spend the extra $ and replace both.

If you have access to a lift, that changes the labor/value formula ATMO.

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Ya, I was hoping to get some help on this one, but it may end up just me on the side of the road. Supposed to rain/snow too..

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

I only replaced the bad one - never thought to reverse sides, but I would probably just replace both instead - Once you have BOTH the half shafts out you are like 85% done.

Nasty job - took me 8-10 hours. I was in my garage, and it was not raining or snowing. I don't envy those conditions!

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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

Zeke, do you recommend checking the rear end height on wagons? I have a hunch that mine sits a bit too high, and may have been the cause of the torn boots in the first place.... I might as well adjust the height before installing new CVJs next weekend?

Also, is there a spec rear-end height for wagons? My Haynes manual doesn't list it...

Thanks!

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-1985 300TD - 324k mi on chassis. MB "Tauschaggregat" 617 motor + 4-speed conversion
Alaska Roadtrip 2009
-2002 E320 Wagon - 197k mi
-1998 E320 Wagon - 310k mi - retired

These axle threads are like the Energizer Bunny...they keep going and going and going........

Since our cars are generally about 22 to 25 years old, the rubber has given up the ghost. I expect to continue to see lots of axle threads with the same questions..........

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Swapping sides isn't really about stresses.

CV joints usually wear out because the balls are being pressed into the same faces, wear into those drive-side faces. Eventually they will click or pop.

Swapping sides puts the drive-side face on the non-worn side, gives them a new lease on life. Usually the balls don't fail.

If they're open to the weather/dust/dirt, different story.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I searched around here for ride heights when I bought the wagon....I remember the figure 12 inches from center cap (in the wheel) to the fender. Maybe it was 16 inches.....I don't remember now. But the consensus on the "proper" ride height was weak. Do some searching around and you may find that thread I came across.

FWIW, I doubt that ride height is too critical for the rubber boots. When you take the old one out you will see that you have to really crank the inside up and the outside down it to get it in position to remove it - and the boot is relatively unaffected by the angle of the axle.....more likely it's just 25 year old rubber exposed to the elements.

Good luck!

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

I had both mine replaced when one started to make noise, it seemed silly to do just one.