Dear Mr. Hondo,

I purchased new Chinese axles at AdvanceAutoParts about 4 months ago. They were about $99 each with no core charge - I kept my old axles to have rebuilt by CVJ.

They were not the same brand as you are considering. They installed relatively easily (I did it myself), and so far the performance is acceptable. The only complaint I have is there seems to be an odd vibration in the drivetrain at about 47-53mph. It seemed to appear at about the same time the axles were installed. I'm keeping an eye on it.

Thank you for everyone's input. I am indeed new to the forum, as well as M-B ownership. My wife and I are expecting a kiddo soon, and I needed something reliable, comfortable, and roomy, so the 300d seems to be a good answer. It's built like a tank runs/smells more like a Peterbuilt, but I really love this car.

I digress. My indie's name is Monte. I have spoke with him over the phone, and seems like a real cool cat. We are both searching for new axles. I have searched the forum, saw the greased cone trick, etc., and a lot of very useful information, both for the axle issue, and most any other issue i can think of. I even gave it a shot at changing the boots by dropping the hub end and sliding the flexx 3000 (not 3001) over the can. I couldnt get the axel to budge after removing the bolt in the hub. I did not loosen the shock (insert correct part description here, instead of shock). I gave the axle a few good raps with a hammer and wood block and it didn't budge one bit. I am not a fan of forcing things, and I can only imagine if it takes that much force to get out, then it will be a PITA to get back in, regardless of everyone's great advice. So here I am in my current situation. Thanks again, and have a good weekend.

I do not think you will have trouble getting new ones in as the original fit is not tight. Perhaps there is some rust and ect. inside the hub spines. When I put my axles back on I coated the shaft spines with a Never-Seeze type compound to insure there would be no trouble later (both of my axles came out easily).
Spray/squirt your favorite penetrating oil in the hub hole and if you have time repeat that. While the oil is soaking in get a suitably sized Brass (better) or Aluminum punch and a hammer with about a 2 pound head on it.
If it is in there really bad there is a factory special tool that bolts to the wheel hub bolts and has a screw that pushes the splined shaft out. There may be something similar that you can substitute.
Take a look here to see the tool:
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/Index/Groups/35RearSuspension.html
The tool appears in sedction 35-620 on page 5.
Also when I replaced my axles I removed the shock absorber and the rear springs (letting the control arm drop down) in order to get enoug clearance to remove the axle.

thanks diesel 911. I have been searching online for a FSM (?) and this seems to be it. Thanks again.

Excellent write up. I copy and paste these "how to" articles into Word and convert them to a PDF file, then burn to CD.
One of these days I will buy a digital camera and post some of my own "how to" articles. In the meantime, it's difficult to set up a 4x5 view camera under the vehicle.

7/29/08 so far the Axles are doing fine.

Dave

GSP axles
 

I bought the AA axles and found that my old factory spacers were too thick and would not let me install the axles.
I ended up with no spacer on the pass side and I ground down the old pass spacer to fit the drivers side in order to install and get a tight fit for the circlip

Years ago, when replacing a axle half-shaft in a 240d I couldn't get the old one out, because it wouldn't clear the suspension. After a bit of calling around I talked to a mechanic at the Mercedes dealership in Bangor (Maine). He said that the trick was to unbolt the part (can't remember exactly what) that limited how far down the suspension could travel. As I remember (this was at least 10 years ago) I supported the outer suspension with a jack while the chassis was on stands, then unbolted the travel limiter, and lowered the jack and suspension a little (maybe an inch or two) until the half-shaft's outboard end could clear.
Dunno if this is specific to certain years or models.
SEO

Reading #33 above reminded me of the process. It was the shock absorber that limits downward travel. Not quite as swanky as my beloved Volvo 122 station wagons, that use a heavy canvas strap to keep the rear axle trailing arms from dropping down too far and letting the coil springs fall out on the road.
SEO

Did you buy those eBay half shafts? If so, how are they working?

Or, anyone else try out the eBay half shafts?

Mark

What I wounder about is that Ebay sellers are subject to dissapear!
How do you get your warranty if you have a problem and the seller is gone?
If the seller is around and will warrant the Axle who do you think will pay the postage to return the old Axle and the postage to recieve the replacement?

126 differences?
 

On my '82 300SD 126 I'm getting an increasingly louder clicking noise on deceleration which sounds like what Dave's son was experiencing in the original post. Is this procedure the same for the 126? If not, if someone could summarize (or detail :)) the differences that'd be much appreciated.

This project is shaping up to be one of my labor day weekend labors ;).

Exactly the problem you will have when swapping any MB axles.

The clip must fit tight and be loaded properly. Every axle is different and as I found some aftermarket axles have a 'radius' edge machined (incorrectly)where the spacer shim needs to sit flat.

Rebuild the originals and keep them on the correct side, do not mix up the clips or spacer shims.

It is very similar to your '82. Not much different if any. Have fun!

W123 W126 axle Differences?
 

OK, after reading through a lot of different threads about exchanging Differentials between w123 & w126 (ie w126 2:47 into a w123). they will fit, but only up to 1985, after that the diff. have a different configuration.

There was another thread a week or so ago showing a list of various MB models that use the same rear trailing arms. the w123 & w126 use the same arms.
www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=229825 post#2

Then why wouldn`t the axles work on both models? unless the w126 is a silly millimeter wider or so. I have both axles out in the shop and they look to be the same length. The splines would also be the same so no difference there.
Taking the W123 and w126 Diff, and axle assemblys apart is the same procedure. only pita is the w126 has the shield in the way removing the driveshaft.


Going into Fastlane Buy parts doing some searching. there is no axle for the 84SD, only a CV Boot, and CV Boot Kit.

For the 84SE there is a axle listed as well as for 86 560SEC and same part#

For the w123 no problem with a selection of axles, just wonder why the new Annular is so pricy:eek:.
New Homokenetic axle $138.60 and a remanufactured homo. axle $235.06. wonder what is with that.:confused:

Charlie