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  #1  
Old 04-22-2008, 10:09 PM
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1985 300DT Repair Questions...

I've got a couple questions.
A. There's a silver metal tube coming out of the bottom of my air filter housing that makes a couple turns and connects to something down below.
Questions:
1. What is the right term for the big black thing that my air filter fits in?
2. What is that metal tube? and where does it go? And what does it do?
3. How tight are the two ends of the metal tube supposed to be where they attach?
4. on a side note-how much oil should be around my air filter? is this a bad sign or anything?

B. I'm looking for the DIY thread on the issue of my car not turning off with the key. I'm wanting to start tracking down this problem right away. If it's any clue, it occasionally will turn off with the key on an extremely humid day.
I'm told it's probably a vacuum issue so let me list the other vacuum gremlins that go with this:
1. Power door locks seldom work-same thing-occasionally on a humid day.
2. Vents do not open and close properly-feet and vents stay on always.
3. "Auto" function of fan doesn't seem to function-sometimes it does
4. Brake warning lamp is always on-brake fluid level is fine.

C. Clarification- this car was hit in the rear end, more on the passenger side. Is there anything tied to the vacuum system back there that would have affected the whole system?

Thanks again.

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Old 04-23-2008, 12:09 AM
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Location: Canada, Ontario, Hamilton
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ill try

a- i think the tube is the blowby oil tube, drains into oil pan
1- air box
2- refer to a
3- tight enough they dont fall off or leak anything
4- normal, clean with a rag and replace air filter if its covered in oil

b- i dono
1 - hide and seek for a vac leak, locks are vac not power
2 i dono
3 i dono
4- its a brake pad warning, if the sensors are the light will come on, check braks shoes

c- the vac pod is in the trunk, all vac ties into it i think
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2008, 02:10 PM
ichbineinekrous's Avatar
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Quote:
1. Power door locks seldom work-same thing-occasionally on a humid day.
2. Vents do not open and close properly-feet and vents stay on always.
3. "Auto" function of fan doesn't seem to function-sometimes it does
Firstly, buy a mity-vac or similar vacuum tester, until you do you're pissing in the wind. You pretty much need one to own one of these cars.

1. attach the mity-vac hose to the orifices on the metal or hard plastic line between the brake booster on the drivers side firewall and the vacuum pump, its the thing with all the vac lines coming off of it. You should have 20-25 inches of vac. If so just follow the lines, checking 3 and 4 way rubber connectors, orifices, dashpots (the little plastic doohickeys) as far as you can. The larger diameter yellow lines that go through the firewall are your supply lines to the locks and vacuum reservoir in the trunk, the brown line that goes through the firewall in the same place can be traced back to a fitting on the side of the injection pump, about 18 inches from the firewall. This brown line merely makes a circuit from the brake booster line(vac. supply) through the ignition switch and back out to a pod inside the injection pump. If you disconnect one of the brown lines and suck on it, it should shut the engine off.

2. There are also vac pods inside and/or behind the dash that control all the vents, they can also be diagnosed with the mity-vac, there are many threads on this forum about the subject, replacing them and/or figuring out which ones are bad can be done, buts its a pain.

3. The fan functions via a relay and temperature sensor that lives in a recess in the dead center of the dash, under a black plastic grille. Often, the insulated hose that runs between the temp sensor and the fresh air supply plenum and behind the glove box deteriorates and prevents the sensor from readily the cabin temp correctly and kicking the fan up a speed. It is easily replaced once you remove the glove box, again do a search for cabin temp sensor or something similar and you should find alot of good responses.

Good luck.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:21 PM
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Ditto on the mity vac. You need to check your vacuum system. Also there is a vacuum pump & cannister in the trunk in the spare wheel well. It may be damaged.

This should help you trsce down the vacuum leaks: Start at the pump, then the check valve and work your way out.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=105297

Danny
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  #5  
Old 04-23-2008, 05:36 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wordmanjay View Post
I've got a couple questions.
A. There's a silver metal tube coming out of the bottom of my air filter housing that makes a couple turns and connects to something down below.
Questions:
2. What is that metal tube? and where does it go? And what does it do?
3. How tight are the two ends of the metal tube supposed to be where they attach?
4. on a side note-how much oil should be around my air filter? is this a bad sign or anything?
A.2 that is an oil drain tube for the separator.
A.3 there is a grommet on the bottom of the separator, not much of a seal is needed.
A.4 Slim to none. Pry the top off the oil separator, clean lid and lip free of oil, run a beat of RVT sealant around (a good amount just to be sure), install new filter and report back in a month.

Do not skimp on the airfilter. OEM Hengst, Meyle or Wix is the way to go. Puralotor et al == crapola.
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  #6  
Old 04-24-2008, 12:29 PM
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Thanks for the help.

You guys are great on this site. I tell a lot of people about it.

Hey, that gray 300D looks just like mine!

Thanks for all the advice.
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2008, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym View Post
Ditto on the mity vac. You need to check your vacuum system. Also there is a vacuum pump & cannister in the trunk in the spare wheel well. It may be damaged.

This should help you trsce down the vacuum leaks: Start at the pump, then the check valve and work your way out.


Danny
W123's don't have this pump. That is a W126 thing.
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  #8  
Old 05-03-2008, 02:15 PM
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Yeah-nothing in the spare wheel well except the wheel :o)

There is however a box of some sorts over on the driver-side wheel well inside the trunk. I haven't messed with it yet,(doing my research first), but it has two lines coming out of it that lead over to where you put the gas in. The crunch (rear end damage) is over on that side and the gas cap doesn't close.
I'm waiting to have the frame straightened and figure out if I'm replacing the back end or just pounding out what's there.....before I go to far into the vacuum system issues.
This thread was mostly research for that day. Or if while I'm currently driving it the vacuum issue become an actual drivdability issue.

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