Is there anything I need to do to my new 1979 300SD 156,000mi that had been parked in storage for 4 years? fluid changes? etc...? only owned it for a week but I had to put on new tires right after I bought it.
Any other information about this rare mercedes would be appreciated. so far I really like this model, 79 116

Benzoheader

1976 300D 115 (odometer broken) (this one is slooooow) need trans
1979 300SD 116 156,000mi. (much faster)
1983 Toyota Sunrader motorhome (for sale-2500)
1987 Toyota PU SR5 4X4 xtra cab

I would check the oil and coolant and then hool up an external fuel tank with fresh fuel and start it up and let it run(if it will) for a few minutes. Recheck all of the fluids. Put a can of fuel conditioner in the fuel rank, hook it back up and start the car. I would have a couple of fuel filters, some vacuum line and fittings on hand. Plus I would change the air filter before attempting to start the car.

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Dave
1983 300D Daily Driver

I personally would change all the fluids and filters to get a baseline for maintenance.
-Engine Oil and filter
-PS Fluid and filter
-Flush and fill Antifreeze (MB Coolant or Zerek ONLY)
-Transmission Fluid and filter (make sure to drain Torque Converter!)
-Flush and Fill Brake Fluid
-Diesel Purge, then Fuel Filters
-Air Filters

Anything else I'm forgetting guys?

Perform a thorough inspection of the hoses and belts before you put many miles on it. Personally, I would go ahead and change the belts and maybe the oil cooler lines. Don't forget the rubber ends of the transmission cooler lines.

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Jim

Turn key clockwise. Glow plugs. Start. Drive.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Everything 85mb300d and engatwork said,
Plus...throw a container of Startron in the fuel tank.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

thanks, I guess I should change all fluids, belts and hoses. the oil was changed just prior to storage but i think I'll change it also. I've ordered the fuel filters. so now I have a bit of work to do.

Would not hurt to adjust the valves. It will also let you see the condition of the visible portions of the timing chain, camshft and towers, etc.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Rare indeed, also extremely controversial whereas Detroit insisted on pushing gas guzzling V-8's even after oil embargos inflicted upon the US by Arab nations during Carter's administration circa 1972/73... W116 300SD was strictly USA export only and Europeans went ballistic not gettin em themselves. And much of this ill will survives to this day. Many consider the 116 platform released in '73 the best for the 617 turbo engine. Everybody wondered what took em so long. Arguably thats the finest handling sedan from its era. Tighter steering radius and more nimble than w123.

Historically it's the first "S" class diesel sedan since the 170DS in 1953. Always it seems MB has encouraged diesel engine production and benchmarks each era with diesel technology development. And nothin's more balls to the wall than the highly refined w116 300SD - vehicle of historical importance and political controversy while tellin gasoline companies to go to hell.

I was pretty young back then, but I seem to recall that nixon was still pres in 72... carter got elected in 76... due to Ford's um... shall we say grace? and his treatment in the press...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

BURN

:edit: I mean.... very interesting...

Before trying to start the engine I would put a socket on the Crankshaft Damper Bolt and rotate the engine over by hand to make sure nothing is hanging things up like a stuck valve.
Also one of the members had a car that had been store for a long time and it jumped a tooth or 2 when he tried to crank it over. The timing chain tensionor on that model did not have the ratcheting device that keeps the tensionor in place during starting. His tensioner was entirely dependent on the oil pressure to push on the tensioner. No doubt the tensionor had a lot of thick sticky old oil in it and was reluctant to move when it did get oil pressure.
I do not think changing the belts and oil cooler hoses is as important as changing the oil, oil filter, fuel filters and doing as the other member suggested concerning a bucket with clean fuel so you do not use the old fuel in the tank.
Ounce the engine is starting and running OK you can proceed to do the other things.
Another suggestion: After you have done all of the above but not tried to start the car yet. Pull out the glow plugs and crank the engine over with the starter to build up some oil pressure to circulate the new oil throughout the engine. This will help to flush out any old cruddy oil that might be in the passages as well as giving it a good pre-lube before you put a load on it when you actually try to start it.
Also no one has mentioned to take precautions to stop the engine in case it runs away (do a thread search for that). Old sticky oil in the Injection Pump can cause the fuel rack to stick (is your IP lubed by the engine oil or dose it have its own oil?).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel