Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-24-2008, 08:54 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 171
Engine Oil Flush??

Hey all! Where do you guys stand on engine oil flushes?? I doubt it's ever been done by the PO and with 128,000miles. If you were to do one, do you recommend ATF or store bought stuff? Thanks!

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-24-2008, 09:09 PM
superbeast1098's Avatar
WHO'S YOUR DADDY!!!!!!!!
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 210
If you are talking about basically doing 2 oil changes back to back, that would be fine. But if you are talking about using stuff that is supposed to remove sludge and varnish, I would advise against it. That type of stugg will do its job, and remove any sludge and varnish, but it also clogs your oil pump, and can possibly lower your compression,
__________________
1983 Mercedes 300D
Atlanta, GA
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-24-2008, 09:35 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 171
Thanks! I guess I'll just stick to getting the engine up to operating temp (and then some,) and do the change, and do another soon after. Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-24-2008, 09:38 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
Drone aspiring to Serfdom
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 32(degrees) North by 81(degrees) West
Posts: 5,554
Don't even think about it!

YEAH,
It will also allow the gunk it breaks loose to clog all those tiny oil passages inside
the head and block.

Do Not Do It!

'Smartest thing you can do for an older dino-oiled MB is run a sump of Mobil
Synthetic BLEND oil through it.(The blend will start gently cleaning all the old
funk out).

Then after a couple of sumps of blend you can switch to fully Synthetic Mobil1.
__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-25-2008, 12:34 AM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,318
On an old engine I wouldn't dream of it, your just asking for trouble.

But if you want to make the inside of your engine look like new use Delvac 1. Think of it like a slow engine flush so you don't clog anything.

I can't get over how clean the internals are of an engine thats feed real synthetic.
__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-25-2008, 08:03 AM
Parrot of Doom's Avatar
1997 W210 E300TD 243,000
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 983
Its a waste of money. Just use decent fully synthetic oil in the first place.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-25-2008, 08:20 AM
fireman1073's Avatar
fireman1073
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: new bedford Massachusetts
Posts: 179
auto-rx.com

slow engine cleaning, dissolves the gunk

Steve
__________________
85 300d in progress
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-25-2008, 08:28 AM
ForcedInduction
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
auto-rx is snake oil. They also constantly spam message boards trying to get people to fall for it.

No oil additives should ever be used in the engine.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-25-2008, 09:39 AM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,452
I try not to.........but

I've done it, but not on purpose. DARN it. I hate forgetting to put the drain plug back in. Lucky for me, I heard oil running onto the garage floor when I had only poured about 1/3 of a gallon. Quick, put the plug in. Then continue to pour. DARN it. Plug does not have copper crush washer on it. Let it go until next time.
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-25-2008, 06:54 PM
ConnClark's Avatar
Power User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,123
I have used a small amount of ATF (1/4 a quart) in the oil just before an oil change. I only drove it about 10 miles before the change though. Marvell Mystry oil is basically 99% ATF. Other engine flushes are diesel fuel or kerosene. As people have said if you have a lot of sludge buildup its not good because it may dislodge to much crud all at once. If you have a lot of crud just start topping off with synthetic to start a slow cleanup. Then start using a mix of synthetic and dino oil for your oil changes. Then do full synthetic. It should probably be safe to add a little ATF at this point before the oil change.

I personally don't think running full synthetic oil is cost effective and just run a 50/50 mix of dino and synthetic. About once a year I add some atf before an oil change to flush more crud out.
__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-25-2008, 10:40 PM
ForcedInduction
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnClark View Post
just run a 50/50 mix of dino and synthetic
Oil types should never be mixed, only one or the other.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-26-2008, 04:47 PM
ConnClark's Avatar
Power User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,123
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Oil types should never be mixed, only one or the other.
Thats a myth. It does not do any harm. It just won't work quite as well as pure synthetic.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Mixing_Synthetics_Conventionals.aspx

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-26-2008, 08:09 PM
ForcedInduction
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnClark View Post
Thats a myth. It does not do any harm. It just won't work quite as well as pure synthetic.
It's not a myth. Oil types and brands should never be mixed. Only one type/brand should be used at a time.

Oil already blended from the factory is one thing, mixing it yourself should not be done.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-28-2008, 02:37 PM
ConnClark's Avatar
Power User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,123
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
It's not a myth. Oil types and brands should never be mixed. Only one type/brand should be used at a time.

Oil already blended from the factory is one thing, mixing it yourself should not be done.
Its a myth.

" Will I Harm My Engine By Mixing Synthetic Oil and Mineral Oil?
Dan Arcy Sets Us Strait

No, you will not.

No, you will not. This is an all too common misconception, and one with no scientific data to support it.
"
http://www.imakenews.com/rotella/e_article000398800.cfm?x=b11,0,w

Even the guys at car talk agree on this.
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/2002/January/06.html

Unless there is some additive in one oil that reacts with some other additive in the other oil there will be no problems. There are no documented cases of this ever happening.

When you blend motor oils you blend properties. Mixing 30 weight oil with 5W-20w will give you an oil with viscosity somewhere in between 5w and 30w. Mixing a better lubricating oil with a inferior lubricating oil will give you an lubricant oil that is better than the worst of the two but not as good as the best.
__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-28-2008, 05:58 PM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,081
Not to side with anybody but I have not only mixed oil weights but also brands. All mfrs have to meet a minimum standard so technically, motor oils should be very similar if not the same. That is one reason why blends are made/sold. I would say same holds for ATF.

I would say that if you had to watch anything, it would be the SAE classification between oil for gas vs diesel engines. The diesels have some additives for soot control and other stuff that helps with the D's. THey are usually the CF rated oils.

__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page