This is for folks with post '83 617's...

To fix my leaking fuel filter head I went to a yard and got a second generation assembly. This is the type with the additional rubber sealing ring on the shaft of the center bolt, and the center bolt is larger.

I can't bleed it like I'm used to on the old assembly. Air is still in there and the engine wont start.

Before, I loosened the filter bolt, pushed on the primer pump until clear fuel came out...no problem.

Is there a different way to do it on these later style bolts? Do I need to lift the bolt up? How do I keep the filter connected to the housing?

And, does anyone know what torque to set the filter bolt to? I cant find the FSM article on the procedure...


Thanks,
dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Torque oughta be soft - like 8-12lbs or will be hell to replace next time. Regarding the bleed, why bother with the silly hand-prime pump at all?? Just crack loose a coupla injector pipes and crank the engine says me.

I was looking at section 0780 of the FSM for my '83 over the weekend. It said to loosen the outflow banjo bolt (labled #3) and pump till the air stops coming out, (see picture). Probable just for the issue you ran into.


Also said to keep pumping until hear the buzzing of the overflow valve in the IP so the air bubble was bled out of it too.

__________________
'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

I tried this for an hour, it wont do any good if there is air in the IP, best to just pump the primer until the IP buzzes.

__________________

1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Who here has cracked those banjo bolts to purge the air?

I spin on a dry filter, tighten it up, hit the primer 10-15 times (until it buzzes), and turn the key for 5 seconds. Bingo.

This method works for my 1982 and my 1983. These two cars can not be the exception to the rule. I just don't believe that.

Worked like a charm, thank you!

Im pretty sure this new filter head is leak free, it looks it. I sure hope so...

I would advise anyone who has a fuel filter leak on a pre-82 W123 to just go to a yard and get the updated filter head with a larger bolt from a 83-85 car. Its much easier and you have a permanent solution instead of a band air fix.

Im going to be running bio and I dont want rubber eating fuel to leak all over my engine mounts, hoses, engine shock, and engine shock mount.

dd
dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I fill my new filter with fuel or ATF before spinning it on. Not as much priming needed if any.

John

__________________
Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

Amen to that. No need to fill filter, why bother. Just crack that out-banjo and prime till fuel appears. Should not take too many pumps either, if your primer pump works as it should.

__________________
Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

bringing this one back because I had a heck of a time getting the 81 started today.

I replaced the pre and main filter, as well as put in an updated primer pump. Pre-filled the main filter about halfway, as that was all the fluid I had round to use...

Pumped and pumped and pumped. made a mess. diesel leaked not from the main filter bolt top, but instead from the circumference of the main filter. Tried to crank, no dice. Repeated again and again. Some times I tightened the main filter to minimize loss, other times I did it loose so fuel would flow (big waste!).

It took a number of tries and a lot of cranking before I could get started.

On my 83, I'd prefill, prime, and start, and though the engine might not be happy for a few seconds, it would go. Here, the engine just wouldnt go, period. I never cracked a banjo on my 83, just left the filter bolt loose, and IIRC, a bit of fuel would bubble from the top/from it. The only mess was to dry up a bit of fuel from the channel around the flter top... not much at all.

So Im hearing that the banjo is the right way to bleed? Ive never had to do that before on the 83 and 85... could it be that an 81 240D has it slightly different? Do you usually have a small puddle of diesel under the car after ding this job?

Thanks,

JMH

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

There have been a few stories lately of fuel filters from auto parts stores which do not seal correctly. I don't know what brand though.

__________________
Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

mine is a knecht mahle, the same brand as MB is providing for most every filter they sell from what ive seen (used to be Mann from what Ive seen).

Seals great... my technique isnt, Id guess.

JMH

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I have the filter with the two O rings on my 85. when I change the filter I prefill with Diesel or ATF whatever is on hand. give the primer a few pumps and she usually starts right up. no need to crack any fuel lines.

when I replaced my engine with the new metric Motor one last Aug. really didn`t have any problems and every thing was pretty well drained.
filled the filter, did some primer pumping, and she started right up. sure suprised me the way she did. might have been a hick-up or two.

The only leak I have had is when one of the O rings had some age to it. just replaced it and has been dry.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Besure to go by the year of the car and take a look at the filter bolt itself as both the old and newer filter housing have the same part number.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Did you say you filled it with automatic transmission fluid? Is this OK?