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#1
04-29-2008, 03:40 PM
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Broken alternator bracket...
So I need a new bracket if I'm going to be able to get my belts to a decent tension. They are WAY loose right now. The parts will be 90 dollars which is high....Is this a tough DIY job? Any one ever do it before? Thanks...
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1984 300d.... 
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#2
04-29-2008, 03:47 PM
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Hmmm. The bolt on the bracket for tensioning is all rusty and bent up but the bracket itself seems like it might be okay. Still....42 dollars for a bolt? I guess I'll just buy that and hope the bracket is still functional enough to be able to tighten my belts...
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1984 300d....
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#3
04-29-2008, 07:48 PM
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Check out a pick and pull.
That ought to be an inexpensive part... I.E., fits in your pocket.....  Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles
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#4
04-29-2008, 07:52 PM
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Do you have any pick-n-pulls nearby? This would be a great opportunity to discover how to remove the bracket and pick up a cheap bracket while learning. Go home, apply your lesson!
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83 300d - 390k
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#5
04-29-2008, 10:29 PM
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For the how to do check this site:
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/Main.html
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#6
04-30-2008, 01:13 AM
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if the bracket is OK, pull some tension on the alt, and have somebody else tighten up the bolts...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#7
04-30-2008, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
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83 SD 84 CD
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#9
04-30-2008, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
The smaller threaded rod type thing is 6x1.00x118.
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83 SD 84 CD
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#10
04-30-2008, 07:14 PM
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if the smaller threads are the ones that broke then get a new allthread cut to a ballpark lenght and weld it on. the lenght of the small thread is not that important.
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#12
05-01-2008, 08:15 AM
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U can completely remove the upper bolt without taking the alternator out. Its just a through bolt, doesn't thread into anything but a nut at the back of the alternator. There is also a spacer between the alt. flange and the rear of the bracket that will fall out and you wont even know there was one in there until you spend about 3 weeks trying to figure out why yr alternator belt won't stay tight. Its almost worth paying the 41 bucks to get the right stuff, I bought a generic bolt and welded a piece of threaded rod to its head and made the spacer out of a spare piece of iron pipe.
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1985 300D Gretchen (Astral Silver) 220k 1983 240D 4-speed Evelyn (Orient Red) 203k TANSTAAFL
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#13
05-01-2008, 04:54 PM
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Or why bother with the pitifully engineered "L" shaped bolt at all ?
Standard repair procedure is hacksaw the ridiculous outer end of Alt Bracket that accomodates the idiot "L" bolt/nut that oughta be discarded in its entirety for easy and simple *manual* tightening of alternator by loosening the 3x17mm securing bolts instaed -while simply prying the alt away from the engine block, nothin simpler. Reason the "L" bolt system sucks is yer pullin against right angled vectors to move the alternator. Most MB knowledgable folks are astonished by stupidity of the "L" bolt system as bein probly the most poorly designed mechanical feature on the car.
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#14
05-02-2008, 01:09 AM
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Interesting... So I can move the alternator by loosening the 3 17mm bolts and tighten them back up once I position it better? Just leave the rusty and bent bolt where it is?? Thanks.
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1984 300d....
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#15
05-02-2008, 01:45 AM
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No I don't think so....But seriously. This bolt is gonna brake when I try to take it out I'm sure. Is their any better ideas on how to amend this system without spening 42 dollars on a bolt or having to even have a new one welded for that matter?
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1984 300d....
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