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  #16  
Old 05-05-2008, 08:06 PM
pmari's Avatar
OM606.962 177hp 330nm
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: L.I. N.Y.
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Not Algae

To be accurate, the bacteria are small enough to go through the filters in our cars. The clogging problem arises from the biofilm that the bacteria secrete. The biofilm (slime) is what allows the critters to interface with their hydrocarbon based meal. This boundry layer is between the water and the fuel. This is why it is very important to be vigilant about activly ridding your fuel of water. Even if you get pristine fuel, condensation happens and over time there could be a problem. Startron contains an enzyme that lyses the biofilm, but if it is not used correctly, it won't work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by doxland View Post
In my experience, the dead bacteria/algae will not pass harmlessly. They will block the filters several times if it's a good infection. You'll know if you are getting results; The dead material smells pretty bad.


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  #17  
Old 05-05-2008, 09:06 PM
Joe
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 44
He said the car is an '85 TD, so it's a wagon, right?

If it is a wagon, and it is anything like an '84 300TD, then the tank is super easy to drain.

If you have more than about 5 gallons of fuel in the tank try pumping most of it out through the filler hole.

Back the rear wheels up on ramps or jack it up, be sure to use jack stands.

Find a container large enough to hold the contents of the tank, you may want to have a backup with in easy reach.

The fuel strainer on the wagon does not have a hose attached to it like the D and SD, it is just a 46mm low prophile bolt in the middle of the bottom of the fuel tank (I got a 1-13/16th" socket from tractor supply for cheap) or you may be able to get it with channel locks or a big adjustable wrench. It is much easier to get at than on the sedans.

Be careful as you unscrew it.

Let the tank drain. Now is a good time to replace those old fuel lines under the car with some good Viton or other synthetic rubber hose.

Clean the tank strainer or replace it. Check that gasket it may be history. A new strainer should only cost about $20.

Reinstall the strainer.

Refill the tank with clean fuel and a good algea killer (you can get that stuff from marinas and heavyduty truck supply houses)

I would unhook the reutrn line and use the hand pump to pump clean fuel into the lines, collecting the old stuff in a coffee can or something.

Change the filters.

Reprime the system and you are off and running.

Keep using the algea killer or use a percentage of biodiesel, or both, and keep an extra filter or two in the car with you.

Hope that helps, lemme know if I need to explain something better.

As for the old fuel...You may be able to pour it through a coffee filter or two, or maybe cheese cloth, just be sure and use that algea killer if you do put it back. I have a 5 gallon container full of algeafied fuel that I am afraid to do anything with, even though I have a centrifuge oil filter that would take out the particles, I just don't want another contamination problem.

Joe
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Last edited by runnysucklehose; 05-05-2008 at 09:12 PM.
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  #18  
Old 05-05-2008, 09:36 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
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Sure a tank is easy to drain, if you don't mind taking a bath in smelly Diesel fuel. Then what to do with it? The last time I drained a tank I had a Hellova time getting rid of it.

Try the biocide first. It usually works.

Tom W
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  #19  
Old 05-05-2008, 11:40 PM
JWJ JWJ is offline
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I've used biocide for both of my MBs when problems developed. After a few weeks of biocide use I removed the tank strainers and there was nothing left to clean off.

Removing the tank seems over the top to me.
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  #20  
Old 05-06-2008, 07:21 AM
Waitn For The Bus All Day
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: south east pa.
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had this problem myself. Star Tron, as mentioned, available from West Marine did the trick. It eats the bugs up allowing them to pass instead of clogging the filters like regular biocide.

Problem two was I still had a clogged tank strainer. Could not get it to budge to clean it so I simply switched the return and feed lines under the hood. At first I wondered if the return line [now the feed] went all the way to the bottom of the tank and it seems to so thats not an issue. I'm sure this fix isn't as good as removing the tank and cleaning it but it's been 2 years and I haven't had any problems.
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  #21  
Old 05-06-2008, 08:04 AM
pmari's Avatar
OM606.962 177hp 330nm
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: L.I. N.Y.
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Biodisel is a hydrocarbon

Biodiesel will feed HUM bugs, just like Diesel. Plus if you run a blend greater than B20, there is a chance of cleaning off old encrusted fuel varnish from the tanks walls. If that happens, you will need extra filters.

As suggested, it comes down to 2 methods. One is simple, pour in a biocide and I would suggest a dispersant also along with startron/xbee as directed for a couple bottles.
The second involves turning wrenches.



Quote:
Originally Posted by runnysucklehose View Post
Keep using the algea killer or use a percentage of biodiesel, or both, and keep an extra filter or two in the car with you.
Joe

__________________
1999 E300DT (131,800) 154,000 Black on Black SOLD

2006 CLK 500 coupe Capri Blue on Grey (zoom,zoom)
47,000mi

04 VW TDI Passat 80,000mi
(Techno)

How to eliminate oil dependency through market-driven approaches.
“We could cut oil use in half by 2025, and by 2040, oil use could be zero,”

The Sound of Diesel Speed
Ode to MB
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