Veggie Conversion Guide - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BabyBenz84 · #1 05-03-2008, 10:01 PM

So I did some searching but didn't really see any step by step guides that didn't require you ordering them. I have most of the parts for my conversion (except my switches and gauges) and am hoping to start it this week. I am going with a 2 3-way valve and second fuel tank setup.

Could someone please point me in the direction of a step by step guide possibly with pictures?

This is for a 190D.

muleears · #2 05-04-2008, 04:54 PM

You might try:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/frm/f/159605551
http://www.greasecar.com/forum.cfm
http://www.frybrid.com/forum/

These are the three main forums I use for such information. You might also try: http://www.burnveg.com/forum/index.php?sid=afaf21c6f1cec10ac5ecffa307e9d9bb

I don't think I have ever seen a step by step instruction though, too many variables. Good luck.

spock505 · #3 05-04-2008, 05:10 PM

Agreed, too many variables - one to add to the list though.

The 190D is a very straight forward conversion, if you start a thread and ask for help you should get a good reponse.

Good luck!

http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/

John Schroader · #4 05-05-2008, 10:26 AM

Josh Tickell's book 'From the Fryer to the Fuel Tank' has a pretty simply overview.

BabyBenz84 · #5 05-12-2008, 04:24 PM

Thanks for the recommendations guys.

I feel so stupid being in only the early stages of the conversion and already have problems.

So if I have a copper line (grease line) run inside of the rubber hose (coolant), what do I do when I get to the grease tank? How do I get the copper line out of the hose and into the tank without breaking the circulation of my coolant? Do I just use some sort of T adapter or something? Does this question make sense?

pizzachef · #6 05-12-2008, 06:37 PM

The image below is from http://www.frybrid.com/hih.htm
I'd recommend you buy aluminum tubing, I got 25' of 3/8" from a parts place for around 25 bucks. Copper reacts more with VO than aluminum.
You're also going to have to drill out the compression fitting so the tubing can pass through it...I used a size W (its a little bigger than 3/8", its 0.386") and the tubing slides through nicely but isn't too loose.

Here's a tip, make all of your bends and tighten all of the pipe fittings, and then the LAST thing you do...the absolute last thing before you refill the coolant...is tighten the compression fittings (the part around the tubing). That way you don't chance bending the tubing inside the compressed part and losing the seal. Also, knock out the copper ferrules that come with the compression fittings and buy plastic ones. If you ever have to undo the fittings, you won't have scarred up tubing.

Once you've got this done, go to NAPA and buy some fuel injector line hose clamps (its called something like that, they can find it in their catalogue) they look like the MB hose clamps that are already on the car, like a band with a machine screw to tighten, instead of the worm type of clamp. Using one of these injector line clamps, you slide some 3/8" fuel line over the end of the aluminum tubing and clamp it to the tubing. It seems like you'd need some sort of barb, but it works for me and lots of other people. Just tighten the heck out of it...put a socket on it, don't use a screwdriver.

Good luck, I just replaced my HOH supply line with a HIH setup like this and it gets the fuel temp up more quickly. Its a good setup, just be careful not to kink the tubing when you're installing it.

bigfredb · #7 05-12-2008, 07:36 PM

There is no step by step guide on how to convert your car.

Here are some of my favorite links (in addition to those already posted):

Conversion Configuration Schematics - the 'complete' list

Vegd VW/

Oil Slick Conversion

Also

Veg My Ride - The DVD

BabyBenz84 · #8 05-12-2008, 08:19 PM

Pizzachef you told me exactly what I needed to know! I think I am ready to start again this weekend.

pizzachef · #9 05-13-2008, 08:49 AM

Good! I forgot, one thing I changed from the diagram above is use an elbow instead of a straight fitting at the 5/8" hose barb, that way the coolant and the fuel lines are pointing in the same direction after they separate.