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#1
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Chain stretch
Lining the marks up on the cam, the balancer says 4 degrees ATDC. This means I should put a 3 degree woodruff key in to bring to to 10.5 correct?
Thanks -Joey
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1988 Toyota Camry Wagon......CRUSHED 1988 Porsche 944.......SOLD 1984 300SD.....SOLD 1995 Honda Civic DX... Totaled 11/13/08 1991 Madza Miata 193K and counting.....Mercedes t3 Turbocharger in the works 10 pounds per RWHP FTW |
#2
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10.5?
dont you mean 1 ATDC after that shouldn't he do the IP timing??
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1985 300D - 599,xxxk - blue interior #265 Monark Nozzle, AL129X, 15" Ronals, Gen II Big Brakes hunting 1985 300D - 491,xxxk - in prog-{A-A IC, 3" exhaust, psi\pyro, 28*BTDC, Hella Euros, IP Limiter removal 1985 300TD - 783,xxxk - parts car,used new engine with ALDA cap inplace 1987 Kenworth T-600 8LL 425 CAT Mech. - 6,000,000+k - DEI exhaust wrap, punched through resonators, 1 recent rebuild, |
#3
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Why not get a 4 degree key to bring it back to 0? Yes, you will need to reset the injection timing.
Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#4
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If the key goes on the camshaft, he would need a 2 degree key. Are they sold based on crankshaft or camshaft degrees?
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#5
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A 3 degree is 6.5 degrees on the crank. The balancer should be at 11, not zero. It that correct?
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1988 Toyota Camry Wagon......CRUSHED 1988 Porsche 944.......SOLD 1984 300SD.....SOLD 1995 Honda Civic DX... Totaled 11/13/08 1991 Madza Miata 193K and counting.....Mercedes t3 Turbocharger in the works 10 pounds per RWHP FTW |
#6
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Wont the 4 degree key be too much? I understand that I will have to time the IP afterwords.
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1988 Toyota Camry Wagon......CRUSHED 1988 Porsche 944.......SOLD 1984 300SD.....SOLD 1995 Honda Civic DX... Totaled 11/13/08 1991 Madza Miata 193K and counting.....Mercedes t3 Turbocharger in the works 10 pounds per RWHP FTW |
#7
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Why don't you check the timing the correct way and put a dial gauge on it. There's a tutorial in the DIY section.
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#8
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I don't have one mainly. Its my understanding that Lining the marks up is fine if they are lined up perfactly. I removed the glow plugs to make it easier to line up, and repeated 4 times, and got the same reading each time.
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1988 Toyota Camry Wagon......CRUSHED 1988 Porsche 944.......SOLD 1984 300SD.....SOLD 1995 Honda Civic DX... Totaled 11/13/08 1991 Madza Miata 193K and counting.....Mercedes t3 Turbocharger in the works 10 pounds per RWHP FTW |
#9
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Quote:
The assumption is that if it was set at Zero degrees when the engine was built any change from Zero would be due to wear and Timing Chain stretch. Here is a split picture of mine: Chamshaft Gear on the Left and Crankshaft Damper on the righe side. Mine is I believe 2 degrees off.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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My thought on the offset Woodruff Key is that if you are going to change it you should be doing it to bring the Chamshaft back into correct time. The Fuel Injection Pump Should be a separate issue and should be timed again anyway after changing the Woodruff Key. My reason is that assuming that the IP was timed correctly to begin with relpacing the Woodruff Key will not compensate for wear of the IP Timer, the IP Chamshaft, the pins and rollers that are inside of the IP.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
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Then I should install the 2 degree key then retime my IP?
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1988 Toyota Camry Wagon......CRUSHED 1988 Porsche 944.......SOLD 1984 300SD.....SOLD 1995 Honda Civic DX... Totaled 11/13/08 1991 Madza Miata 193K and counting.....Mercedes t3 Turbocharger in the works 10 pounds per RWHP FTW |
#12
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I think there is confusion when talking about "degrees" because 1 degree change on the camshaft = two degrees at the crank. If your crank is 4 degrees off then you need the key that gives you 2 degrees at the cam (4 degrees at the crank). Retime your IP when you're done.
Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#13
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I just checked mine, and it is at 2 degrees on the crank. I'm at 248,000 miles, so I'm not going to worry about it until it hit 4 degrees. At the current rate that should be at 500,000 miles, providing all remains well. It is amazing at how proper oil changes really do make a difference.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#14
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There is a chart/list in the Factory Manual as to which key to use.
The decision to retime you IP is up to you. If the IP was timed correctly to begin with (and the prior owner never had the IP timing changed) replacing the key should bring it back close to the orgional timing. This is for my engine OM617.952 I do not know if a 84 300SD has a different engine or not. Below if you read through the whole thing you will see how they arrived at the degrees to pick which offset key to use. Site with pdf got to page 4 for Degrees and which offset key. http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/05-215.pdf It looks like it also has instructions on how to change the key.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 05-05-2008 at 03:10 AM. |
#15
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Quote:
Unfortunately wear is not linear as worn parts cause more wear per time than parts within the original specs. Meaning at 200,000 miles if you have 2 degrees of Timing Chain stretch; later after 400,000 miles you may have 6-8 degrees of stretch instead of the 4 degrees if wear was linear.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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