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  #1  
Old 05-04-2008, 01:46 PM
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Chain stretch

Lining the marks up on the cam, the balancer says 4 degrees ATDC. This means I should put a 3 degree woodruff key in to bring to to 10.5 correct?

Thanks
-Joey

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  #2  
Old 05-04-2008, 01:51 PM
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10.5?

dont you mean 1 ATDC

after that shouldn't he do the IP timing??
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2008, 02:06 PM
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Why not get a 4 degree key to bring it back to 0? Yes, you will need to reset the injection timing.

Scott
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  #4  
Old 05-04-2008, 02:55 PM
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If the key goes on the camshaft, he would need a 2 degree key. Are they sold based on crankshaft or camshaft degrees?
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  #5  
Old 05-04-2008, 02:59 PM
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A 3 degree is 6.5 degrees on the crank. The balancer should be at 11, not zero. It that correct?
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  #6  
Old 05-04-2008, 03:28 PM
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Wont the 4 degree key be too much? I understand that I will have to time the IP afterwords.
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2008, 04:04 PM
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Why don't you check the timing the correct way and put a dial gauge on it. There's a tutorial in the DIY section.
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  #8  
Old 05-04-2008, 04:19 PM
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I don't have one mainly. Its my understanding that Lining the marks up is fine if they are lined up perfactly. I removed the glow plugs to make it easier to line up, and repeated 4 times, and got the same reading each time.
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  #9  
Old 05-04-2008, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joey.dale View Post
A 3 degree is 6.5 degrees on the crank. The balancer should be at 11, not zero. It that correct?
You are correct if using he the 2mm method. I believe he just lined up the timing marks on the Chamshaft Gear and Camsheaft Bearing Tower. When you do this the mark on the Crankshaft Damper should read Zero (as set when the engine was assembled).
The assumption is that if it was set at Zero degrees when the engine was built any change from Zero would be due to wear and Timing Chain stretch.
Here is a split picture of mine: Chamshaft Gear on the Left and Crankshaft Damper on the righe side. Mine is I believe 2 degrees off.
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  #10  
Old 05-04-2008, 05:44 PM
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My thought on the offset Woodruff Key is that if you are going to change it you should be doing it to bring the Chamshaft back into correct time. The Fuel Injection Pump Should be a separate issue and should be timed again anyway after changing the Woodruff Key. My reason is that assuming that the IP was timed correctly to begin with relpacing the Woodruff Key will not compensate for wear of the IP Timer, the IP Chamshaft, the pins and rollers that are inside of the IP.
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  #11  
Old 05-04-2008, 05:49 PM
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Then I should install the 2 degree key then retime my IP?
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  #12  
Old 05-04-2008, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joey.dale View Post
Then I should install the 2 degree key then retime my IP?
I think there is confusion when talking about "degrees" because 1 degree change on the camshaft = two degrees at the crank. If your crank is 4 degrees off then you need the key that gives you 2 degrees at the cam (4 degrees at the crank). Retime your IP when you're done.

Scott
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1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
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1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2008, 09:44 PM
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I just checked mine, and it is at 2 degrees on the crank. I'm at 248,000 miles, so I'm not going to worry about it until it hit 4 degrees. At the current rate that should be at 500,000 miles, providing all remains well. It is amazing at how proper oil changes really do make a difference.
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2008, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joey.dale View Post
Then I should install the 2 degree key then retime my IP?
There is a chart/list in the Factory Manual as to which key to use.
The decision to retime you IP is up to you. If the IP was timed correctly to begin with (and the prior owner never had the IP timing changed) replacing the key should bring it back close to the orgional timing.
This is for my engine OM617.952 I do not know if a 84 300SD has a different engine or not. Below if you read through the whole thing you will see how they arrived at the degrees to pick which offset key to use.
Site with pdf got to page 4 for Degrees and which offset key.
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/05-215.pdf
It looks like it also has instructions on how to change the key.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 05-05-2008 at 03:10 AM.
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2008, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
I just checked mine, and it is at 2 degrees on the crank. I'm at 248,000 miles, so I'm not going to worry about it until it hit 4 degrees. At the current rate that should be at 500,000 miles, providing all remains well. It is amazing at how proper oil changes really do make a difference.
For my engine they do not make a offset key to deal with 2 degrees off as measured on the crank the smallest offset key starts alt 4 degrees.

Unfortunately wear is not linear as worn parts cause more wear per time than parts within the original specs. Meaning at 200,000 miles if you have 2 degrees of Timing Chain stretch; later after 400,000 miles you may have 6-8 degrees of stretch instead of the 4 degrees if wear was linear.

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