Hey guys , yesterday I had a chance to work on my new to me 1983 300cd , I found a few hose's that were not making any positive seals ...especially on the control valves on the valve cover .
I used some small zip ties to seal them , but from all the reading I have found it may make more sence for me to remove that whole mess .
Can anyone walk me though what I should remove , can I remove the EGR and block it off ?
By just zip tying the leaks I found made a huge difference in stabilizing my shift of the transmission , will I have to re-adjust modulator once I remove the EGR system ?
Thanks

greg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=214373

I don't know how similer your 83 is, but here is a diagram for a 603. Remove everything to the left of 67(vacuum pump). You can also completly remove line A.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Use this 5 step method by Brian Carlton

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=1375506&postcount=5

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Sometimes a pic simplifies things.

The first nipple from the booster line feeds only to the VCV & trans (now minus EGR).
The second nipple runs everything else.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=54584&d=1209260062

Since the OP doesn't have a 603, and the 617 is completely different, this post becomes useless..........and confusing to the OP.

And, you do know how dissimilar the '83 is because you owned one (an SD with a 617).

Just trying to help, delete it than I don't care.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

There should be a step #6:
Contact Brian and order the system to remove the EGR valve totally and block off the holes.

I did the 6 step method and very pleased with both the performance improvement and the less clutered engine bay.

Charles

Thanks guys ! I just placed a nice order with phil for some parts to button up some small leaks , hopefully that stuff comes in this week and when I have the valve cover off I will get her all cleaned up .

Thanks

greg

So after disconnecting the vacuum lines going to the EGR, why then install the blocker plate? If the EGR remains bolted on with no vacuum lines attached, isn't that the same effect?

Please put me in the know

Thanks you!

__________________
Cousin Dave
83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong!

Take the best that exists, make it better!
If it doesn't exist, create it!
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!

The plate has no effect on function. It simply allows removal of the valve completely for a cleaner underhood look.

Thank you for sharing. The EGR still sitting under my hood does not bother me at all, so I will just let it happily live out the rest of it's disconnected life right where it is.

Thanks!

__________________
Cousin Dave
83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong!

Take the best that exists, make it better!
If it doesn't exist, create it!
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!

Unfortunately its possible the valve does not seat completely from carbon and wear, pressure in the exhaust manifold can also push it open. Putting a plate under the face makes 100% sure that no exhaust is getting into the intake. Even a cut up coke can will make a great blocker plate if you are keeping the valve in place.

Thanks for the advise ForcedInduction. I have had the EGR valve off and it is clean clean clean so I'm pretty sure it seats well. But I had no idea that manifold pressure could force it open. Here's the fun part of working on these MB cars... who else can say, "ok, I'll go install the coke can to make sure I don't have any issues"??? HAHA

Thanks!

__________________
Cousin Dave
83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong!

Take the best that exists, make it better!
If it doesn't exist, create it!
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!

Yeah, I used the gasket as a template and cut a blockoff plate from a piece of furnace ducting (medium thickness and zinc plated on both sides) and two gaskets from a scrap piece of sheet gasket material I had. Sandwiched the steel plate between the two pieces of gasket and bolted the EGR back onto the manifold. Looks totally stock, but totally disabled. Worked like a charm, and seems like I may have picked up about 1 extra mpg.

__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Manifold pressure cannot force it open unless the pressure is way above specification or the spring is broken.