I have a problem. On an intermittant basis, the ignition key wont turn. It acts like the steering wheel is locked in place (but it isn't). When it happens, I generally have to wiggle the key and the steering wheel around until it lets me turn the key.

It is a new Key cylinder.

What could be the problem?

__________________
Big Fred

(RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky")
(RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre")

It most surely is a new key cylinder.

My strong advice is to stop driving the vehicle. Turn the key to the #1 position for the last time and replace the cylinder.

It's highly likely that you won't be able to turn it on one of these attempts...........and you're looking at $800 to get that repaired.

The cylinder is about $90. from the dealer and it takes about 15 minutes to change it..........provided that the key is in the #1 position.

Where did you buy the cylinder from? AFAIK the dealer has a warranty on all the parts, think its 1 year.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I missed the part about the "new cylinder".

One point to note:

These vehicles tend to put pressure on the locking pawl in the steering column when the key is turned to the lock position and removed.

When the key is reinserted and an attempt is made to turn the key to the 0 position, it does not want to turn. However, if some torque is applied to the steering wheel, the key magically releases and is allowed to turn. The torque on the steering wheel takes the pressure off the locking pawl and the mechanism will now allow the pawl to retract and the key to turn.

This is to be considered normal.

However, you must determine whether this normal behavior is the current condition..........or whether the keyswitch will not turn no despite all attempts to unload the locking pawl in the column, which is a dangerous condition (for your wallet.)

Check out www.dieselgiant.com for his DIY on replacing lock and cylinder assembly.

John

__________________
Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

It may be either the ignition tumblers or the steering wheel lock. The way to tell is, each time you park, cut your wheels fully right or left - when you do that, the steering lock will not engage. If everything works well, then you know it's the steering wheel lock. If you still have the problem, it's the ignition tumblers. The steering lock is more expensive, but you can drive it as long as you want, so long as you cut the wheels before you turn off the ignition.

__________________
Houston, Texas
1984 300CD 235K miles, Elvira, one owner
1987 300TD 180K miles
1974 TR6 78K miles Sarah Jane, one owner
OBK #27

The problem is the lock its self. Phil has them. It's a PITA to replace though.

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

If the 300SD and the 300D are similar as far as the ignition assembly goes. Replace the entire assembly, it took me about 1 1/2 - 2 hrs total. It isn't that bad, it's not complicated it just takes a little finesse. Trust me, if I did it, you can. If I remember correctly, the parts (cylinder and assembly) were about $200.00. Good luck!

__________________
Rich B

1983 300D Turbo
205k

Excuses are crutches for the weak

I wounder what one could do with a working "parts car" assembly (lock & tumbler) that might insure it would last a while if swapped in. I'm thinking lube locking mechanism, check for ware, and just replace the tumbler. I pulled one from my low mileage parts car, which was easy with the dash already out.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I didn't see a DIY for this one on his site.

__________________
Big Fred

(RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky")
(RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre")

http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairignitionlock.htm

Here's the dieselgiant writeup.

Mine has a new tumbler too - exact same scenario. I think its the steering lock, Ill do the experiment above and find out.

Couldn't you always grind off the steering lock like in the dieselgiant writeup if you wanted to save the $$ of buying a new one?


dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Here's my experience with this: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=167286&page=3

Check out post 31 and 35. The piece of plastic I inserted into the mechanism back then is still in place and working well. I haven't had a problem with the ignition since

__________________
Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

Sounds like a great fix. Any possibility of pictures?

__________________
Big Fred

(RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky")
(RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre")