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#1
12-08-2012, 07:16 PM
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Oh no, does this mean I have to get a new radiator?!
I was leaning over trying to get the lower alternator bolt in when I heard a snap. *****! What can i do with this connector? Do I have to buy a new radiator?
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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold 83 300D Manganese Brown 109K 97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold 98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold 95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold 93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold 95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold 94 E320 White 127K, sold 85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold 84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold 99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease) 00 Honda S2000 Red (lease) 86 Mercedes 300E (sold) 84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold) 
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#2
12-08-2012, 07:20 PM
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You can try and JB weld it but unfortunately I'm 0-1 for JB weld radiator repairs so start budgeting it out... Hard to tell exactly what is broken, that's the overflow nipple to the tank? It will have to hold pressure regardless. At this age a new radiator is not a bad investment.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth
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#3
12-08-2012, 07:29 PM
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That can be repaired, but JB Weld isn't the answer. You need a nipple of a variety that you can insert fron the inside and bolt up on the outside. A metal tire valve stem comes to mind. You could pull it in with a wire from the upper hose port. Obviously, the valve core would need to be removed. The hole will need to be 7/16" to fit the smaller gasket.
http://www.brandsport.com/grla-vs401.html?cmp=fwgs2011&gclid=CLXuxPOIjLQCFYZM4AodWV0Arg
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#4
12-08-2012, 08:14 PM
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Will Crazy Glue have a chance?
__________________
85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold 83 300D Manganese Brown 109K 97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold 98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold 95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold 93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold 95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold 94 E320 White 127K, sold 85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold 84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold 99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease) 00 Honda S2000 Red (lease) 86 Mercedes 300E (sold) 84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)
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#5
12-08-2012, 08:17 PM
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Maybe...only one way to find out. Its a small surface though so that will limit the bondig surface. To go with qwerty's comment, maybe a male to male air fitting would hold up, or something like that. I'd be concerned about restricted flow and corrosion though.
__________________
TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth
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#6
12-08-2012, 08:19 PM
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Also parts stores usual have plastic vacuum fittings what might fit like a charm. No clue if it would hold up to heating and cooling plus pressure though.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth
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#7
12-08-2012, 08:20 PM
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The tire valve repair has been documented before, several threads on it.
when it is finished, it will not look out of place and will hold. Doing a bondo, duct tape, bailing wire Mc Giver hack job trying to make do, will cost you more in the long run. Now if you had a 240D, you wouldn`t have this problem.  Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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#8
12-08-2012, 08:23 PM
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The plastic is old and brittle. Only a fitting will do the repair.
Search on Radiator recovery for info and some pics on the procedure. This link may get you there, I think, perhaps, maybe. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/194578-radiator-recovery.html#post1567361
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom
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#9
12-08-2012, 08:42 PM
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I did the same thing on my 82 300SD
 I used a 1/8'' pipe tap to thread the hole in the radiator and screwed a 1/8PX 1/4'' hose barb fitting into it. Don't try to tighten it very much or you'll crack the plastic tank.
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1971 R600 Mack toterhome (SuperDawg)  99 NU-WA Snowbird 34+2 SE 102 5er  If it's not diesel, it's not in my stable! 53 F100 617.951/auto 95 Dodge 3500 Cummins/5 speed service truck
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#10
12-08-2012, 09:41 PM
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when I did that on my wagon, I inserted a brass tube to support the nipple in the tank, then coated the tube, and both broken ends with plastic radiator epoxy from NAPA... worked great for 2 years as a daily driver.
I also covered the repaired part with plastic weld epoxy.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#11
12-08-2012, 10:21 PM
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See what is available in the plumbing supply. Find a barb that is close. Drill to fit & JB it. You may need to go with a larger hose to fit the barb & step down to the current hose.
If it isn't obvious, just order another tank. There is no point in fixing something that is going to come unfixed soon.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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#13
12-08-2012, 11:50 PM
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Assuming you get it fixed, it will still be quite weak and prone to re-breaking. You might want to fab up a u-shaped piece of metal to go over the repaired area to prevent leaning on it and breaking it again.
Every time I work on the car, I'm aware of that little defect and try really hard to avoid leaning on it.
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Current Stable
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#14
12-08-2012, 11:56 PM
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I assume you still have the old fitting. You might try to take a couple of non-important pieces of the plastic and attempt to locate a glue that will work to hold them together.
I think the old Testers model glue melted the original plastic that would then mix when held together and reharden - kinda like welding iron but instead using plastic. It's worth a try. You might have to prepare the surfaces with some filing or sanding. Good luck however you take care of it. If you have success then brag about it with pictures.
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Codifex 1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.) 1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof. 1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)
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#15
12-09-2012, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
That worked for me too. I used some JB Weld on the treads as a sealant. Don't try to tighten it to seal it.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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