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  #1  
Old 05-15-2008, 01:37 PM
sd300td's Avatar
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Location: San Diego
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air filter mounts & bracket repair

I'm going to tackle this job during the next week or two but couldn't find a DYI article or post on exactly what to look for, tools needed, parts, etc.

I'd rather have everything needed in order to complete the task, rather than run all over town or wait for a shipment and not have use of my car.

I suspect that the hose that fits to the bottom of the air filter housing, (goes to the oil pan) is leaky, broken, and or not connected, as there is oil present. No major leaks though (i.e no puddle on the drive way, oily engine block or parts), which I guess is good.

I may even replace the seals on the U boot that connects the filter housing to the turbo, but that jobs looks fairly straight forward. Oh, and I'll probably seal the oil separator with some sort of sealant.

My goal is to 1) eliminate the knock/thump sound which occurs everytime I start the engine, 2) reduce oil in the air filter, and 3) stop oil leaking from the bottom of the air filter housing.

advice? words o wisdom? Links to a dyi article/wiki? all are appreciated.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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  #2  
Old 05-15-2008, 03:01 PM
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Location: Southern NH
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I just replaced the mounts on my 82 300D a couple of weeks ago. I used the octagonal mounts from Phil and also did the following modification to help deal with the vibration:

http://mbca.cartama.net/showpost.php?p=89120&postcount=3

Get the heat shield cups for the new mounts if you don’t already have them (mine didn’t).

I also replaced the seal ring where the U-boot attaches to the air cleaner housing. The old one was so badly deteriorated that it wasn’t immediately clear that the ring first fits over the outlet and lip on the air cleaner housing (NOT easy—do this with the air cleaner out of the car), and then the U-boot fits over the ring. It takes some effort to get it all into place while aligning the housing with the mount bolts and oil drain pipe.

My air cleaner bracket looked OK, so I didn't have to bother with it. This time.

Good luck.

Charlie
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05 E320 CDI - 175K miles
82 300D - 200K miles (sold)
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  #3  
Old 05-15-2008, 03:30 PM
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Super easy job. You'll be done in about 10-15 minutes.
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  #4  
Old 05-16-2008, 05:18 PM
sd300td's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH82W123 View Post
I just replaced the mounts on my 82 300D a couple of weeks ago. I used the octagonal mounts from Phil and also did the following modification to help deal with the vibration:

http://mbca.cartama.net/showpost.php?p=89120&postcount=3

Get the heat shield cups for the new mounts if you don’t already have them (mine didn’t).

I also replaced the seal ring where the U-boot attaches to the air cleaner housing. The old one was so badly deteriorated that it wasn’t immediately clear that the ring first fits over the outlet and lip on the air cleaner housing (NOT easy—do this with the air cleaner out of the car), and then the U-boot fits over the ring. It takes some effort to get it all into place while aligning the housing with the mount bolts and oil drain pipe.

My air cleaner bracket looked OK, so I didn't have to bother with it. This time.

Good luck.

Charlie
Cool. So how much of an oily mess did this make? I live in a condo and have limited ability to make a mess of the drive way.
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2008, 12:22 PM
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Update

So I finally got around to diagnosing (hopefully fixed) the clack/rattle/knock that would occur immediately upon start-up and when you turned the engiine off.

What I think was happening, was that the oil pipe was disconnected (it was) and was rattling around banging against the air can or whatever else might be down there.

So a couple of questions/observations:

1) some one had already added the third rubber bumper to the air can; the bumper that rests against the valve cover. Looked like a factory job, until I read the forum archive. The mechanic did a pretty good job, though I left a few washer's off in order to make reinstallation easier - aligning everything, etc.

2) Only two factory rubber air filter mounts?

3) The oil pipe was the definite culprit. I was able to reconnect it at the air can, but have no idea about how it's connected below (to the oil pan?). My question is that the oil pipe was "loose". By loose, I mean you could move it up and down an inch or two. This made it easier to align and reinstall the air can properly, just wondering if there is something going on farther down below that needs to be addressed.
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2008, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd300td View Post
Only two factory rubber air filter mounts?
If you only have two mounts, the rear "leg" of you bracket has probably broken off and disappeared.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sd300td View Post
Only two factory rubber air filter mounts?

3) I was able to reconnect it at the air can, but have no idea about how it's connected below (to the oil pan?).
There should be a clamp that secures the drain tube to the turbo support brace. Attaches with a nut/bolt.

(This assumes that the subject vehicle is the '82 300TD.)
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  #7  
Old 10-28-2008, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
If you only have two mounts, the rear "leg" of you bracket has probably broken off and disappeared.



There should be a clamp that secures the drain tube to the turbo support brace. Attaches with a nut/bolt.

(This assumes that the subject vehicle is the '82 300TD.)
yep the '82. So where would this rear leg normally be? near the firewall battery or closer to the passenger side fender? Also, no clamp that secures the drain tube was anywhere in sight. Looks like I have more work to do.

Anybody have a picture of the correct oil pipe to turbo bracket?
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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  #8  
Old 10-28-2008, 01:36 PM
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The piece of the air cleaner bracket that usually breaks off is closest to the firewall.

Getting a picture of the drain tube clamp is just about impossible. The clamp attaches to the portion of the tube that is horizontal. There is a bolt hole in the turbo support brace. It's almost impossible to see; feel for it.
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  #9  
Old 10-28-2008, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post

Getting a picture of the drain tube clamp is just about impossible. The clamp attaches to the portion of the tube that is horizontal. There is a bolt hole in the turbo support brace. It's almost impossible to see; feel for it.
so the drain tube clamp is at the bottom of the tube, not the top where it attaches to the air can? I just want to make sure that I don't have a problem. The drain tube is definitely attached to something down there, just with a lot of play and free movement. Doesn't sound like a job I could tackle, especially if it can't be seen and is hard to reach.
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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  #10  
Old 10-28-2008, 03:04 PM
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The turbo brace is a flat piece of steel with angles at each end. The lower end attaches to the upper, forward stud of the right side engine mount arm. From there, it extend upwards to the exhaust manifold/turbo flange. There is bolt hole in the middle portion of the brace.

The clamp is an Adel type clamp, not a hose clamp. It wraps around the drain tube and secures to the brace with a single nut/bolt.

The clamp location is difficult to see but not that hard to get your hands on. If you can get the tube clamped, it will be pretty solid. Otherwise, it vibrates up and down and wears out the o-ring seals in short order.

Last edited by tangofox007; 10-29-2008 at 02:48 PM.
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  #11  
Old 10-29-2008, 01:39 PM
sd300td's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The turbo brace is a flat piece of steel with angles at each end. The lower end attaches to the upper, forward stud of the right side engine mount arm. From there, it extend upwards to the exhaust mainfold/turbo flange. There is bolt hole in the middle portion of the brace.

The clamp is an Adel type clamp, not a hose clamp. It wraps around the drain tube and secures to the brace with a single nut/bolt.

The clamp location is difficult to see but not that hard to get your hands on. If you can get the tube clamped, it will be pretty solid. Otherwise, it vibrates up and down and wears out the o-ring seals in short order.
very helpful. Thanks!
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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  #12  
Old 01-29-2009, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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Broken already

The air canister mounting bracket has already broken. Same break as the original; at the arm that extends out towards the passenger side fender.

Think I might just leave it and eventually unbolt the broken piece. Not sure what is causing this thing to break, motor mounts are newish...not too much shaking considering...

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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