So! I just picked up an '82 300TD, which I'm completely in love with. All in all, it's in great shape, but there's one little thing that's nagging me about my new baby....

The steering wheel has a considerable dead spot for 2 or so inches in the very middle. While I'm driving, i can wiggle the wheel left and right with little or no movement in the car. As soon as the dead spot ends, the steering is very responsive and operates like you'd expect

Around town, the dead spot's not a big deal, but on the freeway, it's a different story. changing lanes at 70mph with a dead spot causes for some unnecessary jerks when the steering actually engages.

Any thoughts?

You can adjust the steering box to remove play, but you should verify that the play is not due to other front end components first.

If the play in the wheel is limited to the steering wheel side of the steering box, it should be OK to adjust.

1" of total play is what you should expect.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

cool, thanks chad. i'm thinking it might be something else, because the car does pull to the right as well. I have to keep the steering wheel turned left (to the threshold of the dead spot) to keep it straight on the road.

Could an alignment issue be the cause for the dead spot?

I think it sounds like you have some worn front end components that are causing an alignment issue and extra wheel travel. I would get it looked at ASAP or your problems could end up compounding.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Rotate your tires as well.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

So,
1) I jacked up the front on both sides (USE JACK STANDS)
2) Grab the passenger side tire at 9:00 and 3:00 and wiggle it back and forth.
3) If it moves, lay on your back and look at the tie rod ends and the Idler arm while wiggling the tire. My guess is you'll find your play in those components. That's where mine was.

A (Good) alignment shop won't do an alignment if these parts are worn. Ask me how I know.

I ordered 1 idler arm repair kit and new left, right and center tie rod assemblies for a total cost delivered of $179 from the buy parts link above. (BTW, it's cheaper to buy the whole assembly than it is to buy the individual tie rod ends)

I'll be replacing them next week and will take some pictures if anyone's interested. Dan

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

interesting.....yeah, please do post pix when you get that done. I'd love to see it.

thanks,
Ryan

It is easy to tell if the play is caused by sloppy Steering Box adjustment or not. Have someone slowly rock the Steering Wheel back and forth between that 2 inches of play. Observe the Pitman Arm coming out of the Steering Box; if it is not moving while someone is rocking the wheel back and forth adjusting the Steering Box will help it.
It is something simple but under inflated tires can also cause your car to pull to one side as can a sticky Brake Caliper Piston/s that causes your brakes to drag.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Diesel911 has the right test, and I usually turn the shaft coming out of the box where there is a coupler that its adjusted right or not, just grab the coupler and turn it and see if the pittman moves in accord or not. You don't need a second person to turn the steering wheel
It is very possible that the steering box is worn, the gear has an adjustment for wear and if not adjusted promptly the wear can accelerate to the point the slop is impossible to adjust out. To adjust it, you loosen the hex nut that is around a small shaft with a hex key opening in it, this is locate on top the steering box, then turn the hex shaft CCW to tighten the gears and do not overtighten this or your steering wheel will not return to the straight ahead position promptly after making a turn. Hold the hex key while tightening the locknut. A badly worn worm gear will never feel proper, despite tightening this set screw so don't be surprised to need a new steering box. If it turns out you really need one, I suggest finding a known low mileage wreck and swapping the box from it to your car. A remanufactured box has to be done properly, I had to replace one that was supposed to have been repaired but wasn't done properly so I wound up changing the box again, and I'll assure you it is a back breaking job! that box is heavy and after bending over and reaching down to get to this thing your back will feel like you need a overhaul yourself. I finally got a used one off a low mileage wreck and its tight and the steering was so nice afterwards that I wished I had not gone with the rebuilt box the first time around. Live and learn.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Don't forget to check the coupler on the steering shaft.

Sometimes called the rag joint.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

damn, you guys rock. i'm a total newbie (both to MBs and DIY car maintenance), and am amazed at the info up here....now that i'm a little more aware of the elements at play in the steering system, searches on previous posts yield quite a few results. sorry for the dupe posting.

i look forward to digging into this over the weekend.

BTW, all wagon owners are required to post pics. Welcome to the wagon club.

Also, set up your signature with your vehicle specs so in future posts you won't get ripped for not having done so.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

thanks for the tips....the wagon's been in my posession for a little over 24 hours, so i'll definitely be taking pics and updating the profile over the weekend.

i appreciate all the help!

I was told by a friend the Shop Manual calls for 1-2 inches of play in the wheel without movement.

__________________
-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

so, i've jumped on this and here's what i've come up with:

1) the play doesn't seem to be in the tie rods. I jacked up both sides of the vehichle and the wheels were rock solid
2) the rod going from the steering wheel into the steering box is fine, all couplings are OK there.
3) when i move the steering wheel within the dead spot, the Pitman arms don't move.
4) taking the advice from this thread, i tried to tighten the hex screw on the top of the steering box. BUT, the damn nut at the base of the screw is screwed on wayyyyyy too tight. i can't loosen it up at all. Subsequently, i can't turn the inner screw CCW to tighten up the slack.

I think i might be hosed at this point....??