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#1
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Ok, I've been worried that I've had a cooling problem since my 83 240D heats up on the freeway rather than city. Today it was 110-113oF and I was driving kind of uphill with the A/C on (of course
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76 MG Midget 78 Datsun 280Z 86 Peugeot 505 01 Subaru Outback “Owning a car is like owning a dog. Every now and then, it craps on the carpet — but it’s still your dog.” - Jeremy Clarkson |
#2
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I had similar issues and replaced my radiator rather than trying to flush it. Now my temperatures, rather than being 115C-120C, are around 85C-90C at freeway speeds with A/C on, ambient 95F.
You're running a little bit hot at 100-110C but it could be worse. Flush your radiator (disconnect rad, remove from car, pour in CLR, leave overnight, flush well), change your thermostat, change your coolant and you'll probably see a big difference. After consulting around many places, an "out of car" radiator acid flush (with CLR or HCl or Citric or whatever) is preferable to doing one in-car where the chemical can eat through seals and gaskets and so forth. Congrats on having a working A/C in your car btw, apparently thats a rarity ![]()
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1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror 231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER |
#3
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in your previous post you said you have a coolant leak. can you take a picture and post it so we can see how bad the leak is. also that t-stat needs to be replaced. i can't believe it got that hot out there today here in the IE it was only like 90 or so. and like i said in the previous post make sure you be careful with the t-stat housing bolts. if they break its not the end of the word it will just add some frustration to the project.
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#4
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I want to get a new thermostat and do the coolant flush like you said. Thanks about my air conditioning....
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__________________
76 MG Midget 78 Datsun 280Z 86 Peugeot 505 01 Subaru Outback “Owning a car is like owning a dog. Every now and then, it craps on the carpet — but it’s still your dog.” - Jeremy Clarkson |
#5
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where is the red color coolant coming out of the block.
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#6
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oh just saw the pics it looks like rust to me. If the coolant has been in there awhile then it can create rust. just flush it and drain the block. there is is drain bolt on the passanger side of the engine take the bolt out to drain the engine when you are ready to flush the rad.
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#7
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Quote:
The gauge has hash marks numbered 40, 80, and 120. I'm assuming the un-numbered hash mark between 40 and 80 is 60 and the one between 80 and 120 is 100. Is that correct? They appear to be pretty linear and evenly spaced, but I thought I saw where someone said in another thread that the hash mark between 80 and 120 was 90*C... I ask because I just swapped my t-stat and now instead of reading somewhere between 80 and the hash mark below it (which I assumed to be 60) it now sits between 80 and the hash mark ABOVE it (which seems like it should be 100). since 100*C = 212*F somewhere right around 100 seems like it should be optimal for engine efficiency - right?
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel Silver blue paint over navy blue interior 2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise 99% original unmolested car ~210k miles on the clock 1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion 152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown |
#8
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Autozone doesn't carry the amber coolant, but I found one there that said it was safe for aluminum parts so just used that.
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1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror 231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER |
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