My car still won't start after replacing fuel filters and primer pump. I did everything the right way, new washers, o rings, etc. and followed directions found on this site.

I'm hoping that it may just need a battery charge as numerous cranks of the engine have been made over the last two days.

Am I thinking clearly here? OR should I focus elsewhere?

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

You need 4 things:

- Working glow plugs
- Fast cranking speed (need decent charged battery for that)
- Fuel squirting out injectors (crack hardlines at injectors while cranking to confirm fuel delivery)
- Correct timing (Are you sure timing chain isn't broken? Look down the oil filler hole in cam cover while cranking, and make sure cam is rotating)

There's also IP timing, but if nobody messed with it since it last ran that shouldn't be the problem.

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'81 300CD - 180K, cannot be killed by any conventional means
'99 Ford Escort - good MPG

Glowplugs and timing are fine. The car runs extremely well.
I didn't crack the hardlines at the injectors. I did crack the release bolt on the filter housing, and pumped until clear fuel came out, then retightened.

How many injector lines do I need to open? I tried last night to open one, but couldn't budge the thing. The cap part came off easily, but not the second bolt that actually goes into the IP.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

Do you have fuel at the injectors when you crank the engine?

Have you pumped the primer pump at least 50 strokes?

Does the primer pump leak fuel (old style pump)?

Are there any fuel leaks at any point from the primer pump to the injection pump.........the slightest hint of fuel on a line is the definition of a leak.

Do you have 12V at a glow plug when cranking the engine?

Have you checked the glow plugs for resistance?

I couldn't get the injector line open last night. the top nut was easy, but the bottom nut/bolt wouldn't budge. I could force 'em, but would rather use it as a last resort, which is why I asked if a low battery was a reasonable culprit. Sounds like it is, so I'll try jumping it or charging tonight.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

The injector line has a single nut that secures it to the injector. You crack this nut and fuel will run all over the top of the injector. There is no "bottom nut" unless you're attempting to remove the entire set of hard lines..........not required.

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying. To be clear, I need to crank the engine in order for fuel to flow out?

How many injector lines do I need to crack, which ones? Does it matter?

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

Yes, you need to crank the engine and observe whether you've got fuel.

Crack one. It doesn't (shouldn't) matter.

I guess I've been lucky over the years when I had my 300CD. Never had a problem restarting after filter replacement, but I always started it after EACH filter, not after both were replaced. I also would fill the canister filter almost full of diesel prior to install.

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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE.

I cracked one of the injector lines, charged the battery (it was at 50%), got fuel from the cracked injector line, yet still no start.

Will check GP system today. Barring anything wrong with the GP's, what else could it be?

There are no fuel leaks.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

if you got solid fuel from one injector line, tighten it, then move on to the next line. make sure there are NO bubbles coming out of the lines before you re tighten it.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I was able to crack the #4 and #5 line, and got fuel with no air. I was able to crack the #1 line, however couldn't get any fuel whatsoever to flow.

I can't get the #2 & #3 lines to budge. Wrench is too thick, etc. Help. I don't want to have to tow to a mechanic...ekk.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

If the engine has fuel and the glow plugs are functional, it has to run if there are no serious mechanical issues (broken camshaft.......timing chain snapped.......etc.)

So, if the info that you provided is correct.....fuel at the injectors and five functional glow plugs.......the engine has more serious issues.

I don't know what serious mechanical issues could have developed over the course of changing fuel filters, but i guess it goes on a flatbed to the mechanic.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

If you think that you may still have air in the system, you can take a shot at a tow start to get some additional engine rpm's.

Tow the vehicle to 30 mph in neutral, turn the glow plugs on for 15 seconds, and drop it into "3". The transmission will engage because the front pump is rotating and the engine will turn at a decent rpm. Continue to pull it until it starts (if air is your problem).

Try not to run into the towing vehicle..........