I just installed new Monark injector nozzles in my '78 300D and overall, I am pretty pleased. I haven't driven the car enough to reach conclusions about mileage, but the car seems a little slower to accelerate - it feels like I have to press the accelerator pedal further and harder and it seems a little slower up hills.

Seems to run great at 65-70 mph on the highway though...

I had them pop tested and balanced and while I had the injectors out of the car I checked the compression - 300-320 across all 5 cylinders.

I changed the fuel filters a few thousand miles ago and the pre-filter looks clear - although the fuel looks a little green???

Any thoughts? I am tying to get this car ready for several long road trips in the next couple of months.

Thanks, ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

If your pop pressures were low before, that effectively advances timing which if like other diesels usually adds a bit of power.

Maybie its because the cylinders are perfectly balanced and you cant feel one of the pistons trying to come out of the head XD You should have documented your last 0-60 time. and compared them to your new ones.

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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.

It also tends to shift the peak power to higher rpm, which would be consistent with feeling a little sluggish at lower rpm. I would drive it for a while and see what you think.

I noticed the Green Diesel Fuel also when I changed my filter 2 weeks ago. I think it is dye they are putting in the fuel because last year as far as I the fuel was yellow. Here is a site the talks about it.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080311165427AA7AI1Y
If you had Bosio nozzles in your car before the Monarks may seem sedate. I had some Brand X (Italian 7 diesel) nozzles in my car for about 1 year and replaced them with the Monarks. My idle and the sound at idle improved and it acceleration felt smoother and slightly peppier to me.

It might be that your Monark nozzles might respond well to the IP timing being reset if it has not been checked for awhaile.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Maybe the different nozzles would benefit from an IP retiming.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

agree with that.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

I just bought a drip tube - can I do this myself? I have read thru the DIY article and most of the archive articles, but mine is the 617 non-turbo.

Is there a way to check timing before loosening any of the bolts - just to double-check??

BTW, I have driven quite a bit the last couple of days - either I'm getting to use to it or the difference is not that noticeable. Car runs great at highway speeds...

ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

For different timing methods "checking Injection Pump for begin of delivery". Pick wich method.
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/Index/617N/07MechElec.html

Just to check the timing do not unbolt the pump from the engine bolck until you see what the timing is.
If you end up having to rotate the IP there is also a bracket at the rear of the pump that needs to be loosened.
in Fig.11 You will be removing #2 and #3 after removing the Pressure-Valve Holder (Delivery Valve Holder) putting the Pressure-Valve Holder back on and us a Torque Wrench to tighten it back down. When you are done you will reassemble it with all the parts and replace the Copper Crush Washer and if it has one the O-ring; followed by torqueing with the Torque Wrench.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Anyone identify the ID and OD of the copper crush washer that I need to replace after checking the pump timing? Copper crush washers are not a special item to Mercedes, are they? If I can identify the right size, I should be able to find one locally - right?

ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

Not a bad price either. Ordering the set would save lots of time and effort.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

Thanks Sean - I was really wondering if they were just a universal fit crush washer. I am 1000 miles from home and don't have time to order them online and get them before we leave Ohio (for OK). I was hoping to be able to find them locally so I can time my injection pump and get it back together w/o it leaking.

BTW, it looks like I only have to remove the #1 pipe only - to connect the drip tube. Is that correct?

ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

Far as I recall, timing is synched on the #1 cyl.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

Curious, where did you get the nozzles from?

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I am not a post whore, I am a car enthusiast.
86 190D 420k and counting

I have a set of 5 in my car that I bought from Sean C Watts. They have been in for about 3 months now and I have experineced no problems at all with them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel