WWJD if he had his 617.95 out of the bay? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#16 06-02-2008, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 777funk

Didn't Jesus ride around in boats...

I thought he just walked.

jt20 · #17 06-02-2008, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1983/300CD

My guess is that he would yell, "Eek, iron horseless carriage!"

^^ more like:

"what in the he^% is this thing still doing on earth?"

jt20 · #18 06-02-2008, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alastair

Water-pump, all rubber water hoses, belts etc. Oil cooler rubber pipes, Inspect/test radiator, check/replace wiring/fuel-lines as required, re-build injectors, have the injector-pump re-calibrated, phased and balanced.

I wouldnt go mad on the bottom-end. If you have good oil-pressure when fully hot then there will be not much point in replacing bearings as they will have little or no wear. Remove and check nos. 1 and 2 big-end and the nos 1 and 2 main bearings. These are the 'first' that tend to show wear.

Replace chains and guides/tensioner as you say, but might be worth replacing the crank sprocket at the same time.

Valve guide-seals should be replaced, but if the guides are worn, these will not last well--All that extra movement will wear a new seal faster than expected.

Personally, I think you may be going about this the 'wrong' way. I would concentrate on the top-end. Valves, guides, etc. rather than the bottom-end.
The bottom end in these is extremely robust--Its usually only when there's been a no oil/low oil level condition that causes excessive wear/damage to the bottom end..

Ok, there are a few things here I was not considering AT ALL. Like the IP. I thought the 85's had improved bushings and valve that helped them last longer (metals ?). I have read threads and seen that there a trend of failing IPs after 200k. I think I will wear it out 'til it goes unless you think this calibration will extend tis life cycle---

please .. input^^

I refuse to take the head off. I have completed the first compression test and it looks very promising. The car runs great and in comparison to the few other diesels I have driven,, it has punch... for a freakin' station wagon. I am trying to be as least invasive as I can be. This patient only has a broken femur, she will walk again.

water pump - I will look into that.

fuel lines (metal?..all the rubber is newish) - check

injectors I believe have been gone over before receiving the car - will pattern test

belts - definitely

I am under the impression that head comes off for valve guides.. correct?

Hope I don't come off as harsh. Just trying to be precise.

I truly appreciate everything you have mentioned.

vstech · #19 06-02-2008, 09:49 PM

valve guides certainly do require head removal. the seals however, do not.

#20 06-03-2008, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

I thought he just walked.

Its a fairy tale so he could do what he wanted. Walking is so outdated, I think he had god teleport him where he wanted to be.

jt20 · #21 06-03-2008, 08:32 PM

Should the engine shocks be changed also?

When do they start to go?

777funk · #22 06-04-2008, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

Its a fairy tale so he could do what he wanted. Walking is so outdated, I think he had god teleport him where he wanted to be.

Well I guess you're right. Walking was lame

He did actually move from one place to the next instantaneously at a point. He also walked on water in Mark chapter 6 toward the end.

As far as if it's true or just a cool story, I encourage you to challenge your conclusion by reading a book called "A Case for Christ" by Lee Strobel:
http://www.amazon.com/Case-Christ-Journalists-Personal-Investigation/dp/0310209307

It's got some great evidence that confirms much of what we've all heard in church or read for ourselves in the Bible. Good book.

And yes, Jesus would also change the engine shocks

rcounts · #23 06-04-2008, 01:31 AM

IF Jesus cared about something as mudane as an MB engine, he wouldn't need to pull it out - he could just speak the Word, or lay hands on it and HEAL it - like he did the deaf, mute, blind, lame, lepers, and others. Or tell you to start it up and it would be factory new - like changing water into wine by telling people to pour it from one jar to another.

But for us mortals who DO care about such mundane things as automobile engines, while you have it out is the time to do as many repairs as time and money will allow. As others have stated, check crank & rod bearings, all the gaskets & seals, and replace as neccessary.

There's nothing worse than doing the job halfway and then having the ONE thing you didn't bother doing any repairs to take a dump on you - and then having to pull it out again or attempt repairs on it after it is back in the car.

You should be able to replace valve seals and check for excessive clearance between the valve stems/guides without pulling the head. Just bring one cylinder at a time to TDC and use one of these...

...to remove the valve springs on the TDC cylinder to replace the seals. Of course if in the process you discover the guides are worn and sloppy, then the head will have to come off to have them replaced. But it is better to find out while it is out of the car while it is easy to pull & reinstall than to put the engine back in and THEN discover the guides are shot.

Just another $0.02 from the peanut gallery...

jt20 · #24 06-04-2008, 02:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 777funk

And yes, Jesus would also change the engine shocks

I knew that guy had class... but an excelent sense of forethought!! That secures his divinity for sure. I will change the shocks!

jt20 · #25 06-04-2008, 02:25 AM

Dr. Counts,

FSM does not state anything about the use of a spring compressor for these valve springs. Have you done this on an om 617? Is this a suggestion to simplify the process?

#26 06-04-2008, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

Its a fairy tale so he could do what he wanted. Walking is so outdated, I think he had god teleport him where he wanted to be.

Unfortunately the guys who wrote those stories hadn't seen star trek (or a diesel engine), or tele-porting (and driving around without horses, while making large amounts of smoke and noise) probably would have been included too. Walking was the limit of their imaginations. But it does make a cool story.

You might as well change the engine shock while your in there.

vstech · #27 06-04-2008, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcounts

You should be able to replace valve seals and check for excessive clearance between the valve stems/guides without pulling the head. Just bring one cylinder at a time to TDC and use one of these...

...to remove the valve springs on the TDC cylinder to replace the seals. Of course if in the process you discover the guides are worn and sloppy, then the head will have to come off to have them replaced. But it is better to find out while it is out of the car while it is easy to pull & reinstall than to put the engine back in and THEN discover the guides are shot.

Just another $0.02 from the peanut gallery...

um, nope. not needed, the valve springs are held down by threaded adjuster nuts. two 14mm wrenches and maybe a crecent wrench if you have trouble with the spring turning (there is a hex shaped spring cap to hold onto with the crecent, or your hands...that's all I needed to pull the springs off!)

Caduceus · #28 06-04-2008, 06:01 PM

Nothing major but i'd change the sway bar bushings out. I'm sure itd be easy with the motor out. Mine were so worn I could fit my finger in the gap. Also now would be the time to clean up the engine bay and maybe apply undercoating to all the painted surfaces for an awesome factor of rust prevention. Also with the motor pulled replace the turbo drain grommet and seals because it's a pita when its in the car.

jt20 · #29 06-04-2008, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caduceus

Nothing major but i'd change the sway bar bushings out. I'm sure itd be easy with the motor out. Mine were so worn I could fit my finger in the gap. Also now would be the time to clean up the engine bay and maybe apply undercoating to all the painted surfaces for an awesome factor of rust prevention. Also with the motor pulled replace the turbo drain grommet and seals because it's a pita when its in the car.

Thank you. I completely forgot about this. One of the bushings is completely deformed. I should probably do a complete examination of this bar b/c of the previous accident.

F'ing brilliant.

pawoSD · #30 06-04-2008, 10:43 PM

Yep, Jesus' engine would never have any wear, and would never ever need service....and would run forever.....wait a minute....thats just like the ones on ebay!