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  #1  
Old 06-10-2008, 09:46 PM
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stumped by rear window

Hi all... Ok so we are talking about a w123 1983 300DT sedan 49 state car.

I have searched and read over many post on the rear window not working issues in these cars which were very helpful but still can figure how to proceed. here are the facts:

-Drivers rear won't go up or down.
-have removed actuator and motor they test fine with battery charger have greased and tweaked alignment.
-I have 12.1 volts and ground to the wiring harness in the door verified with volt meter
-I have tested the switch by plugging it into the other door it works fine.
-I can jump hot and ground in door wiring harness and make window motor run both ways...

I plug in the switch and nothing, so what am I missing???????

Thanks for helping a cow tipping drunkard figer this here complex junk out.

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  #2  
Old 06-10-2008, 09:53 PM
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The switches themselves?
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2008, 09:58 PM
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Try testing the wires with the door open AND closed. There could be breaks in the wires at the door jamb. If your switch works elsewhere, the motor works when jumpered, and the front passenger window still works (the fuses link the windows diagonally), that's all I can think of.

The wires in my door jamb were broken and made the window work intermittently due to poor connections. They eventually broke clean and the window wouldn't work at all until I spliced new sections of wire in.
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2008, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cphilip View Post
The switches themselves?
I have moved the switches back and forth, they work in one door not the other.
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  #5  
Old 06-11-2008, 01:16 AM
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b U m P

Reply #3

Make sure you use stranded wire,the finer the better.
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  #6  
Old 06-11-2008, 01:26 AM
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Remember that the door switch and the console switch must both be good for the rear windows to work. Additionally, the contacts in the switches corrode with time and use. If they are worn/damaged/dirty, there might be enough contact to give you a reading on your voltmeter but not good enough to pass the several amps of current that the motor needs. Fortunately, the switches can be taken apart and cleaned.
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  #7  
Old 06-11-2008, 03:01 AM
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Switch the console switches and see if it works.

Check the voltage at the switch terminals on the passenger side. I think more than one should have 12V. If the console swithes are good it has to be a bad wire (could be on the ground side).
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  #8  
Old 06-16-2008, 02:35 PM
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Thanks for all the input guys....ran new wires through door jam all better now.
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  #9  
Old 06-16-2008, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billhard View Post
Thanks for all the input guys....ran new wires through door jam all better now.
Congratulations Bill. Enjoy the wind.
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1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
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1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #10  
Old 06-16-2008, 03:05 PM
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Glad you fixed it, I had the exact same problem that I fixed last week. The easiest way to confirm broken wires is to pull the switch at the door and lift your center console. Use an ohm meter to check the two wires that run from the console switch to the door switch.

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