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#1
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stumped by rear window
Hi all... Ok so we are talking about a w123 1983 300DT sedan 49 state car.
I have searched and read over many post on the rear window not working issues in these cars which were very helpful but still can figure how to proceed. here are the facts: -Drivers rear won't go up or down. -have removed actuator and motor they test fine with battery charger have greased and tweaked alignment. -I have 12.1 volts and ground to the wiring harness in the door verified with volt meter -I have tested the switch by plugging it into the other door it works fine. -I can jump hot and ground in door wiring harness and make window motor run both ways... I plug in the switch and nothing, so what am I missing??????? Thanks for helping a cow tipping drunkard figer this here complex junk out.
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1972 280SE 4.5 |
#2
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The switches themselves?
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1983 300D-Turbo - Deep Blue w Palomino MB Tex (total loss in fire 1/5/09 RIP) 1995 E320 W124 Polar White/Grey Mushroom MB Tex 2005 F150 Supercrew - Arizona Beige - Lear topper 1985 Piaggio Vespa T5 - Black and Chrome www.cphilip.com |
#3
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Try testing the wires with the door open AND closed. There could be breaks in the wires at the door jamb. If your switch works elsewhere, the motor works when jumpered, and the front passenger window still works (the fuses link the windows diagonally), that's all I can think of.
The wires in my door jamb were broken and made the window work intermittently due to poor connections. They eventually broke clean and the window wouldn't work at all until I spliced new sections of wire in.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#4
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I have moved the switches back and forth, they work in one door not the other.
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1972 280SE 4.5 |
#5
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b U m P
Reply #3
Make sure you use stranded wire,the finer the better.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#6
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Remember that the door switch and the console switch must both be good for the rear windows to work. Additionally, the contacts in the switches corrode with time and use. If they are worn/damaged/dirty, there might be enough contact to give you a reading on your voltmeter but not good enough to pass the several amps of current that the motor needs. Fortunately, the switches can be taken apart and cleaned.
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#7
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Switch the console switches and see if it works.
Check the voltage at the switch terminals on the passenger side. I think more than one should have 12V. If the console swithes are good it has to be a bad wire (could be on the ground side).
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=296386 |
#8
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Thanks for all the input guys....ran new wires through door jam all better now.
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1972 280SE 4.5 |
#9
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Congratulations Bill. Enjoy the wind.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#10
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Glad you fixed it, I had the exact same problem that I fixed last week. The easiest way to confirm broken wires is to pull the switch at the door and lift your center console. Use an ohm meter to check the two wires that run from the console switch to the door switch.
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1985 300D 170k |
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