I went to a local parts store, and asked for the filter. What i got looked nothign like a normal oil filter. Where does this thing go? how does it install? what is this funny looking thing???? this is the first oil change i have done since i bought the car midway through the summer(was changed with records when i bought it), i used to change my buicks' oil all the time but this looks completely differant Also, what brand/viscosity/weight etc oil do you recomend? i have a slight blow-by problem as well. How many quarts of oil will she take? another thing, my old fuel filter turned black, so i replaced it. The new one turned black again in a day. The fuel level is fine, and i'm thinking possibly algae? what do you recommend? also, can you please advise on how to get rid of excess tranny fluid, i accidentally over filled. thanks for your help
R

RG,

The subject of oil and oil changes plagues this forum daily.

Your engine is much like the engine in my car: a 617.9xx five cylinder diesel. It is a venerable Mercedes Benz workhorse, and it is the happiest when lubed with a diesel-rated oil, such as Shell Rotella-T, Chevron Delo 400, or Mobil Delvac. In the summertime, I would suggest a 10-W40 grade. She will hold about 7.5 to 7.9 quarts of oil.

The oil filter is indeed a different animal than what you're used to; it is made to filter the diesel-specific particulates.

Why do you think you have a blow-by problem? Please supply more specific symptoms. A little oil in the air filter housing is to be expected with these engines.

You know what? I'm thinking that what you really need is a Hayne's manual for this car. It will guide you through the simpler maintenance chores such as the changing of the oil and filter. And please make use of the copious amount of posts already penned on maintenance issues, by using the search feature here.

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Matt
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1995 E300 Diesel (Die Blau Frau)

At the right hand side towards the back of the engine block, sits the oil filter housing. Unlike a lot of other cars, the filter is changed from the top. On top of the housing there are two 13mm bolts. Remove these and you will then lift out the oil filter cover. Now you can remove the old oil filter. The oil drain bolt is on the rear of the oil pan. The manual says 7.9 quarts of oil, but to make things easier, I just dump in a full 8 quarts.

I highly recommend that you get a Haynes manual. The one to look for is "Mercedes Benz Diesel 123 Series." Even though your car is a 126 chassis, the engine and transmission are the same. However, suspension and body, etc. will be different.

What's the second washer that comes with the Mann filters used for?

Took me several changes to figure out that the copper washer might go on the oil plug, but still can't figure out the second one.....

Also I have heard people mention that you should check the condition of the two little bitty O-rings that are on (what I'll call) the alignment shaft that is part of the oil filter cannister cover. (Note: The cannister cover is not just a cover - it has a long rod attached to its center - so the cover has to come straight up when removed.)

Ken

Ken,

I've been told that those two little o rings that are attached to the shaft of the oil canister cover are to prevent the oil from draining back into the crankcase when the engine is off. I change them out about every 3rd oil change.

Just check then with your fingernail to make sure they are pliable and not deformed and they should be fine. I bought myself alot of these little o rings when I got the car thinking I would have to change them out alot (like every oil change) but as it turns out they are still pliable. But I do check them every oil change.

Another item that needs to be checked that is stated in the MB CD is the small hole that is on the same shaft close to the top of the cover. IT is supposed to be open and not clogged. It is a one way valve and every once in a while I usually shoot a little WD-40 into that little side hole to make sure it comes out the other end at the bottom.

Herb
'82 240D

You don't need to worry about the second washer. I just use the copper one for the oil pan drain bolt. I've heard that the second washer is for other engines that use the same filter.

Per the manual, the torque specs. for the oil filter cover is 15 ft. lbs. and the oil drain plug is 30 ft. lbs. I also second the suggestion of using Delo 400. I don't know if there is any connect or not, but it seemed that my oil cap stopped leaking oil after switching to Delo 400, from Shell Rotella.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

I heard the steel washer was for engines with an aluminum oil pan.

__________________
When I close my eyes, and inhale, I can smell No. 2.

Follow the advice listed above!

I'm using Rotella in my car. One of the venerable sirs here suggested that it should be good for year round, unless you live in Artic conditions. I'm in MI; but then I plan on driving the Escort in the winter.

I've done 2 oil changes, one with a Fram and one with a Napa Silver series. I'll check out the Mann at Autozone, alleged to be the best. The important concept breaks down like this: you can use Crisco and a roll of toilet paper, as long as you change it "hot n often".

Hint...make sure to lube the o-ring that goes to the filter before installing.

Your oil will basically turn black right away. It's a diesel issue. I had some "blow-by" evidence in my oil filter when I bought it. I cleaned it out, and it hasn't returned. I'm thinking that it's from it never being done. Don't forget the EGR valve, and famous cigarette butt tachometer fix.

I hope you enjoy your as much as I do mine!

__________________
83 SD 143 K miles
93 Grand Caravan 130K miles
92 Buick Regal (winter car)

Thanks everyone! i'm looking at a change eaither thursday night or this weekend(depending on whether it takes a 600 mile trip this weekend) i'll be looking at all your suggestions when i do it. Thanks again, you all have saved me at least 20 bucks!!!!!!
thanks!!!!
R

Definitly use a diesel oil. One reply mentioned a 10-40. Most of the diesel oils I've seen are 15-40. Be sure you oil has "C" ratings vrs "I" ratings. C=compression engine, I= ignition engine. I've been using the Delo 400 on my 87SDL with 275,000 miles.

It sure seems to be cheaper for a filter company to pack two washers into the same box so that one box covers a wider range of engines.

What is the cigarette tachometer fix? I have a couple that are intermittent and I would likr to fix them. ~~~~~~P E H~~~~~~

The only thing that needs to be added to Bill's How-to is "if you need to lift the car USE JACK STANDS OR RAMPS!". Do not trust your life to any jack holding the car up.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

First, the Haynes manual is fine if you own a W-123, but they don't adequately cover the W-126 models like the 300SD. I suggest Chilton's manual, # 48300, which covers all models from the 190D to the 500SEL and all model years from 1974 to 1984.

Second, here's a trick on the oil filter removal. Use a plastic bag over the top of the filter housing after removing the cover. Invert the bag, grab the oil filter handle with the inverted bottom of the plstic bag, and while holding the opening of the bag in place at the opening of the filter housing, pull the filter up, place a rag under it, and turn it over so the filter is now in a plastic bag ready for dosposal at your local recycler.

Also, you may want to consider reading some archived threads on oil and oil changes. For instance I use a topsider suction device to change my oil so I don't have to get under the car. And I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil instead of DELO, Delvac or Rotella.

Finally, as to the tach repair trick. The little unit on your drivers side inside fender that looks like a small cylinder contains the tach sending unit which gets a signal from the tach sensor, or rev counter. These units are notorious for not being soldered properly, so you can use a styrofoam packing peanut (perfect size and density) placed between the outer canister and the sender to apply pressure on the contacts in the sender, and cause them to connect again. As Bill mentioned, it can be a scrap getting the sender out of the casing, but you can get it out by using a little finesse. Not brute force. Wiggle it from side to side, gently pry with a small screwdriver, etc.

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Scott Longston
Northern California Wine Country...
"Turbos whistle, grapes wine..."

i disagree with you on the manuals longston, i have a chiltons and i might as well throw the thing in a lake. It is completely useless for my DIESEL 300SD, i think there is one page dedicated to my diesel engine. IN the back it even says that if a car is putting out black smoke stay completely away from it as it has some major problems, with no exceptions to diesels. Just my opinion though.
R