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  #1  
Old 07-10-2008, 09:10 PM
NC Benz's Avatar
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Location: Fuquay-Varina, NC
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Front end shimmy, bad tire wear -- Wheel Bearing?

I have replaced the upper control arm.

The lower ball joint has a ripped boot, but when I put a jack on the lower control arm (to release pressure) to check the ball joint, it is nice and firm.... no movement.

When I lower the car back on the ground, and put my hands at 2 and 8 O'clock, I get movement.

I am also getting bad wear on the INSIDE tread of this tire. I am also getting a bad shimmy from this tire (which could be the bad wear pattern).

I look at the lower control arm bushings, and they SEEM OK. Will need to be replaced at some point yes. I dont THINK I am getting any movement from the lower bushings. And yes I will be replacing the lower ball joint. But when I get in there to do the ball joint I want to take care of all of the issues.

Sooooooo, is it possible I have a loose/worn wheel bearing? I am not getting any weird bearing noises.

Thank you for any answers.

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NC Benz
Fuquay-Varina, NC
1979 300D
1983 300D Turbo 260,000 Miles
1984 300D Turbo 345,000 Miles (sons car)
OBK #31
1998 Ford Expedition 5.4l (fer Haulin'!) 145,000
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  #2  
Old 07-10-2008, 09:37 PM
fruitcakesa's Avatar
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Worn tierod ends?
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  #3  
Old 07-10-2008, 09:57 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lutz, Florida (N of Tampa)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Benz View Post
I have replaced the upper control arm.

The lower ball joint has a ripped boot, but when I put a jack on the lower control arm (to release pressure) to check the ball joint, it is nice and firm.... no movement.

When I lower the car back on the ground, and put my hands at 2 and 8 O'clock, I get movement.

I am also getting bad wear on the INSIDE tread of this tire. I am also getting a bad shimmy from this tire (which could be the bad wear pattern).

I look at the lower control arm bushings, and they SEEM OK. Will need to be replaced at some point yes. I dont THINK I am getting any movement from the lower bushings. And yes I will be replacing the lower ball joint. But when I get in there to do the ball joint I want to take care of all of the issues.

Sooooooo, is it possible I have a loose/worn wheel bearing? I am not getting any weird bearing noises.

Thank you for any answers.
if you grab the top and bottom and it moves its likely arm bushings or ball joints, sides is likely tierod ends, bearings dont care about orientation and will be loose in any direction. I bought the full kit from ebay since all of the old components have the same miles. My lower and upper inners looked fine until I pulled it apart, and they came apart in my hands. same symptom on the tire and a lot of vibration on the highway until I replaced everything. if your on a budget, give the lower inner and upper inner a good look and make sure they arent squeezing out the sides or dry rotted, also, if you are only doing partial replacements be careful taking things apart. I ruined my tie rods and ball joints because I didnt have the proper press. pickle forks seem to be useless on MB's
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  #4  
Old 07-11-2008, 09:34 AM
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OMG! really, it's simple to seperate any tapered joint like a ball joint or tie rod... just whack the side with a hammer. DO NOT HIT THE THREADED PART. hit the pass through section with the nut loose, and pop! out comes the tie rod/ ball joint.
with tie rods, it's best to support the opposite side you strike with a mass of steel like a larger hammer or an anvil or something...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #5  
Old 07-11-2008, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
OMG! really, it's simple to seperate any tapered joint like a ball joint or tie rod... just whack the side with a hammer. DO NOT HIT THE THREADED PART. hit the pass through section with the nut loose, and pop! out comes the tie rod/ ball joint.
with tie rods, it's best to support the opposite side you strike with a mass of steel like a larger hammer or an anvil or something...

you would think....... i did all of the tricks and no joy. i finally got enough apart to put the whole assembly in a vise and pop them
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #6  
Old 07-11-2008, 02:58 PM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Location: Atl Gawga
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7GVWcB-bg
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  #7  
Old 07-11-2008, 03:06 PM
vstech's Avatar
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Location: Mount Holly, NC
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thanks mutt, that's priceless.
I usually just hold one hammer still, and hit with just the one other hammer... that synchronous hammering would be difficult...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #8  
Old 07-11-2008, 03:37 PM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
Posts: 9,346
I used pickle forks last time, I'll be using this one next.

I *HIGHLY* recommend having some dry ice around, does wonders.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42
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