Its me, putty again with more questions to annoy and irritate!

My two Merc Gurus Brian and Dave have left me a little in the dark about minor questions about my SDL with the 603 motor.

1. What is the process to completely block the EGR? and I live in an Emissions county...how will this affect that?

2. I once removed my Alda head to change out a stop valve...are you telling me that I can take this thing off my IP and drive around just fine!? Seems like such a strange extra step to just reduce black smoke.

3. I shoved a nail in the 4 way tee at my Vacuum pump to block off the EGR...what else (vacuum wise) would I need to do to get rid of that passenger side engine ugliness?

Im totally a picture person...Im really stupider than I type...any help would be great especially with a person who would be considered a greenhorn who really REALLY wants to learn.

one other thing...I may have a problem with my wastegate...where is it? and how do I clean it?

1. If you blocked the vacuum hose per 3), you've most likely disabled EGR completely. the only thing is some leakage past an EGR that isn't fully seated. If you suspect that to be the case or to rule it out completely, put a blocking plate between the EGR valve and the mixing pipe.

Do they check that emission control devices are working or do you just have to pass an exhaust opacity test? You should pass an opacity test with the EGR disabled.

2. The car will run without an ALDA. Your decision whether to leave it off.

3. There's a vacuum line that runs parallel to the EGR line towards the right headlight. That line goes to the ARV circuit. You can block that at the splitter as well.

Sixto
87 300D

Why do you think there's a problem with the wastegate?

The wastegate is between the turbine and the exhaust flange. Atop the turbo there's an actuator with an ~8" rod. The far end of the rod attaches to a bellcrank on the wastegate shaft. I can't imagine it's easy or even possible to service the wastegate with the turbo attached to the engine.

Check that there's no slop in the rod. If you can, remove the circlip holding the rod on the bellcrank. Make sure the wastegate shaft doesn't close any further with the rod off (this would be the short direction of travel if there is a short direction). If so, adjust the rod so it holds the wastegate closed.

Sixto
87 300D

Well, I made a HUGE difference in power tonight...with a small bit of suction. I pulled off the vac line from the intake manifold to the turbo sensor and just blew it out...LOADED with crud. When I took it on the road, WOW!!!

The power was great and the 0-60 was just around 9.5 sec.

More or less, I was wanting a step by step on how to block off that EGR...I dont wanna do any damage.

Oh, and the emissions test is your basic 2 step...gas cap seal test and then exhaust test (that is, without a computer to plug into).

Is the emissions test on a dyno or unloaded engine?

Step-by-step of how I block the EGR... for testing purposes -

- remove the EGR valve from the mixing pipe. It's held by two bolts that take either a 5mm or 6mm hex key. The EGR valve won't go far because it's held to the exhaust manifold by the feed pipe.
- remove the EGR gasket and try to keep it intact
- take the gasket to a machine shop and have them cut a metal plate in the same shape as the gasket but with only the bolt holes. No center hole.
- obtain 2 EGR gaskets. Buy ready made or cut them out of auto parts store exhaust gasket sheet. If you buy from an MB dealer, bring the old gasket because I couldn't get Smythe Europen in San Jose to produce the right one.
- with what little clearance there is between the EGR valve and mixing pipe, clean the mating surfaces
- slip into the gap the two gaskets with the metal plate in between
- put the EGR against the mixing pipe and refit the bolts

I don't even plug the vacuum line.

That's actually method 2. Method 1 used on the 87 SDL was to press a brake cylinder piston into the mixing pipe port and seal it JB Weld. I think the piston was from an aircooled VW but I don't have another one so I don't know for sure. I'm sure you can measure the opening and find a suitable freeze plug. Method 2 was used on the 93 SD as well.

I use the plug method on the ARV. It takes either a 12mm or 1/2" freeze plug. It's overkill but I had to use drastic methods on the SDL because the plunger was deformed and wouldn't seal the compressor housing.

Darn all this diagnosis

Sixto
87 300D

Putty - look at THIS thread.

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