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#1
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Vacuum element removal tips/tricks?
How do these things come out with out breaking anything?
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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts. |
#2
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Out
You have to dis-connect the operating arms and vacuum hoses ...Then they
kinda twist-lock out (In Reverse).
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#3
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I've labeled some things in your photos.
Disconnect the operating arms at the very ends (A). Usually this can be done with your fingers, but sometimes a screwdriver or small pliers can help. It's not essential to disconnect the vacuum lines before removing the element/actuator from the mounting plate. You can do it before or after, whichever is easiest based on access. Obviously, you have to disconnect the vacuum lines before removing the element from the car. The element has a bayonet mount with three large tabs (B). Twist counterclockwise when viewed from the element; clockwise when viewed from the perspective of the photo "defrost." Just like a normal bolt. One of the three bayonet tabs (the one with the largest hole in the metal mounting plate) has a small locking tab (C) that clicks into place when the element is properly seated. This tab has sloped sides, so it does not have to be pressed in when removing the element, but if you can reach it and press it in with a small screwdriver it might help. The locking tabs (D) that hold the two or three plastic parts of the element together can be somewhat fragile (brittle from age), so it is best to hold the element by the lowest part (E) when removing. If you're planning to replace the rubber diaphragms inside the element, rather than the whole element, be very careful with these tabs (D). Breaking one is not the end of the world, but breaking two might prevent the element from being reassembled. |
#4
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The three vacuum pods shown in the pictures are the dual chambered ones, which have two hose attachments and can be accessed by removing the glove box. The two mounted together directly behind the glove box close the outside air (recirc) flap entirely (when the "O" extreme right button is pushed on the CCU button panel) or most of the way (when AC is on and max. cool is dialed in on the temp wheel).
When testing these you can attach your vacuum pump to each nipple individually to see if they hold a vacuum. For the dual chambered pod for the defrost flap (located to the left of the recirc flap) you’ll need to have both hoses connected to your vacuum pump at the same time in order to test it. It won’t hold a vacuum with just one attached which might lead you to falsely conclude it being defective. The rubber diaphragm insert can be replaced for the 3 single chamber pods but not the 3 dual chambered ones. The picture shows the innards of a dual chamber pod. The rubber diaphragm number 1 is similar in design to those found in the single chamber pods. This can be replaced. Number 2 can not be replaced because the rubber is compressed between the outer and inner wall of the cup which holds the rubber in place as indicated by the red arrows. It does not appear possible to disassemble this part.
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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts. |
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