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#1
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I Need Suggestions On Lifting Engine Out Of Car
I have a 617 5 cylinder turbo diesel engine all disconnected and ready for removal (with transmission, does not seem possible to access bell housing bolts with engine in car) in a 1979 300SD. I removed the AC pump, fan, radiator, and since it's a parts car--I cut and removed the body above where the radiator used to be for more clearance.
Anyway, I notice there is one eyelet in front and two in the rear of the engine. I have an engine hoist with a hook. What is the best way of hooking onto the eyelets to lift the engine and transmission out? They are supposed to come out at a 45 degree angle, but since I cut out the front portion of the body they should be able to come almost straight out. My shop manual CD says to use rope in the eyelets, but what kind of rope? Or what should I use to connect the eyelets to the hoist hook? I am thinking of possibly using chain and some carabiners. Any thoughts? P.S. The engine will be bolted up to a 4 speed column shift transmission and installed in a 1967 fintail.
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#2
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Get a load leveller and attach that to the hoist. then attach it to the engine. It is better to pull the entire assembly of engine and trans in one shot as you are planning to do.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_19889_19889
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
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#3
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wasnt necessary to cut the body....
prop the hood all the way open and lift the motor out once the disconnects are made.
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
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#4
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Quote:
Rope??? Wire rope or, use a chain. It helps to have the car up to allow the transmission tail to drop. Cutting the radiator support from a parts car makes it easier. |
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#5
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Thanks for the input. This car is a rust bucket and is getting scrapped anyway after I strip it of all usable parts, so I cut the radiator support so I wouldn't have to lift the engine so high.
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
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#6
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Hi there...
We just removed an engine out of a 300D turbo diesel.We did not have any problems removing the engine other then you have to remember that the torque converter is connected to the engine fly wheel.So you need to pull towards the front of the car then lift up... See the whole thing at www.benzguy.piczo.com and look for 1982 300D Turbo Diesel engine removal Good luck Dan
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Cheers Big Dan MEng Visit my Blog.. http://allformercedesbenz.blogspot.com/ www.benzguy.piczo.com If at first you don't succeed, Skydiving is not for you. ![]() ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE IS NO MATCH FOR NATURAL STUPIDITY. If anything can go wrong,fix it! The hell with Murphy!! I never think of the future.It comes soon enough. |
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#7
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Chain
I've always used a chain with that hook. I've pulled Jag V12s,Chevy motors, and a VERY heavy GMC 351ci V6 that way. You can do it 3 spotted or two with one length of chain. Just hook it up and jack. Then you can see how it wants to move and adjust the chain to get the pull force correct.
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85 300TD FED-Daily 84 300SD-Wife's 86 XJS-Sunday 66 GMC-Work- Given to my stepson 83 BMW Airhead- Given to my stepson |
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#8
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A huge second, third and forth vote for the load leveler! I pulled many engines over the years trying to guess at how much slack should be on the various lift chains and invariably, I had to put the engine back down a couple times during the process when the angle wasn't right. For my last swap, I broke down and bought one from Harbor Freight - it was cheap, like $25 on sale!
It works like magic. One of the problems when not using it is that pressure builds up when the engine contacts some part of the body as it's sliding up and out. This pressure has a nasty way of letting loose when you're not paying attention or are yanking on it trying to free it up. An engine and tranny are very unforgiving to hands and fingers in between hard metal parts.
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
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#9
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Ditto on the merits of the "load leveler", I use my air ratchet to speed things up
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
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#10
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I even went to the trouble to post a link to Northern Tool. There is a load leveler for $34 Follow the link in my older post.
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
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#11
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Load leveler is the way to go. cut that damn little crank off and weld on a nut. then you can use a 1/2 inch wratchet, much easier when all that weight is hanging there. I used a 13/16 long nut. most hardware stores have them.
be sure to remove the torq converter bolts first while the engine is connected. there are 6 of them. think they are 13mm. much easier than after the engine is out. been there. that northern tool leveler, don`t know I would trust those hooks. look weak. think mine uses 5/16 chain and have shackles on the chain that attaches to the lift points. you have a lot of weight hanging there, think safety. Charlie I just looked in Northern tool web site, they have another eng hoist for a little more $ and the same weight lifting . but looks much safer.
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works Last edited by charmalu; 08-07-2008 at 01:47 PM. |
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#12
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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#13
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...or your local McParts store. That's where I got mine.
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1995 E300 200k 1981 300GD unknown km |
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#14
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My local tool liquidators had one for $25. It is rated for 1500 lbs. Thanks for the links, guys.
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
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