Picture worth a thousand words - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

benjira · #1 08-17-2008, 03:58 PM

OH WISE DIESEL GURU'S

Could one of you incredibly smart diesel engineers please take a picture of a 1980's 617 engine fuel system and put your little label things on it showing what's what? I need some sort of visual reference so I know a banjo from a secondary. I am willing to pay for it if need be. I have seen all sorts of pictures but am a little confused as to what fuel lines go where. I am sure I have air in the lines but don't know how to get it out. Thanks guys your tip's have been invaluable. It's frustrating not to be able to get this thing going when the answer is right in front of my face. Someone needs to write one of those Diesel Engines for Dummies Book. I will take the first copy.

BB

techguy512 · #2 08-17-2008, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benjira

Could one of you incredibly smart diesel engineers please take a picture of a 1980's 617 engine fuel system and put your little label things on it

A better solution might be for you to post a picture of your engine, and have someone label it for you.

benjira · #3 08-17-2008, 08:27 PM

Here is a picture of my fuel system. Any help in identifying parts and pieces would be appreciated. Thanks

BB

kerry · #4 08-17-2008, 08:36 PM

If you keep all your questions in the original thread, it will help people in the future who are trying to solve the same problem.
Did you ever check the resistance of the glowplugs?
If you pump about a hundred times on your primer pump and then screw it down tight, you might be able to start it. But replace the old pump when you get the opportunity.
I don't have the technical ability to label your picture.

benjira · #5 08-17-2008, 08:46 PM

Should I keep pumping with the injectors open or the hollow screw open, or the whole system closed. And what about all of the fuel I am dumping out of the primer pump? I believe the resistance was 2 ohms at the plug end I will check again tomorrow. The plugs are brand new Bosch.

kerry · #6 08-17-2008, 08:50 PM

I believe the FSM says pump with the hollow screw open until you hear something (bypass valve operating?).

benjira · #7 08-17-2008, 08:55 PM

what do you mean by hear something? So i keep pumping and let the fuel keep running out until I hear something.

vstech · #8 08-17-2008, 09:06 PM

if there is air coming out with the fuel, then yes keep pumping, if there is pure fuel, then no. close it.

benjira · #9 08-17-2008, 09:15 PM

It looks to me like it's pure fuel, but I have yet to hear any sound or noise, so I don't know. I don't see any bubbles.I did at first. I could keep pumping 100 times and there would probably not be any fuel left in the car.

benjira · #10 08-17-2008, 09:25 PM

Here is what the manual says

Model 123.1
Loosen hollow screw (3) and keep pumping with hand
pump until fuel pumps out free of bubbles. Tighten
hollow screw again.

2 Loosen actuating button (3) of manual delivery
pump (on engine 61 7 in model 11 5.1 not required)
and keep actuating manual delivery pump until fuel
emerges free of bubbles at vent screw (2) or hollow
screw (2 and 4). Tighten vent screw or hollow screw
again.

4 MW and MIRSF-injection pump with mechanical
governor. Keep pumping with hand pump until overflow
valve on injection pump opens (audible buzzing
noise).
5 Tighten actuating button of manual delivery pump
again.
Note: This will force pump piston on a sealing ring
and the hand pump is sealed in outward direction.
With actuating button released, the manual delivery
pump will leak during operation and air may enter
fuel system.
6 Run engine and check whether all connections are
leaktight.

I am not quite sure what the Note section means.Any help would be great.

compress ignite · #11 08-17-2008, 11:39 PM

The Note is saying this in Mercedes engineer speak:

The "Actuating Button" is the White Plastic Knurled [It's knurled so that you
may loosen the "Button" (Lefty Loosey)and "pump like mad"and then secure the hand pump by depressing it fully and tighten it by screwing the "Button" down
(Righty Tighty)] pump handle.When you Tighten it it seals (Allegedly)the hand
pump against air leaking in.

The bolt on top Center of the Secondary (spin On ) fuel filter is hollow and is sometimes referred to as a "Banjo bolt".In fact ,if you'll look at all the bolts
on the Fuel filter housing (Secondary,Spin On) to the Right of the dead center
bolt securing the Fuel Filter they are "Banjo Bolts" also.

If you've pumped enough so that the fuel is coming out the vent bolt...
(and you've taken care of all those other things) you're ready to start it.

(In your picture the top radiator hose is disconnected)

kerry · #12 08-17-2008, 11:52 PM

The glow plugs in the picture don't look new. Didn't you say in the other thread that it had new glow plugs?
If you did not install known new plugs (and even if you did), you need to check the resistance of the plugs with a multimeter. Resistance must be under 1 ohm. These engines are sometimes very hard to start without all 5 glowplugs functioning.

benjira · #13 08-18-2008, 12:53 AM

Hey
That picture is old. I just put brand new Bosch plugs in. I had the same continuity across the board at the relay plug going to the glow plugs. I didn't think to test the resistance since they were new. I have 9.5 volts going to the plugs. I think my issue is air in the lines. I am going for a new primer pump tomorrow.