w123 torsion bar snapped between control arm and body...
 

my 300d's front left torsion bar has snapped, between the upper control arm and the body of the car.
the top of the control arm, ( the big open loop ) is hanging free.
The rest of the bar (that went thru said loop) is gone.

Car turns left when braking, understandably.

So, am I totally screwed or is there a fair way to repair that snapped rod?

I'm currently 45 miles from home, and wondering how much I can drive on it...
As long as I keep it slow and dont brake or turn hard, it should be ok to get it to my casa? ya?

What a wonderful day this was. :)

EDIT: Here's a picture...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3225/...db242b8b09.jpg

There is a fix-kit for that: http://www.peachparts.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.php?page=35

I'm no expert
 

I would think that there would be no problem in driving the car.....just don't do any heavy cornering.....

The torsion/anti-sway bar is only there to improve handling......I don't think it has any affect on the position of the UCA.....

SB

Thanks you 2. That Torsion Bar Saver, well I vote for it to be called the Torsion Bar Saviour.

Thanks, that's a huge load off my mind.
Now the solution is simple.
:)


ps....I kept searching the forums for tension bar instead of torsion bar.

I drove it back to the city. Had to have a massive breaking distance, which I did. I really do not suggest it. Even light braking lunges the car left. The whole time I'm holding it right, I'm wondering what other part I'm putting the stress on. maybe without the other torsion bar it woulda balanced, i dunno :)

I have an extra one and by the way I wouldnt drive the car, thats asking for trouble.

Looks like you got some rust holes blown out by the spring

the wheel can fold flat, as the sway bar actually holds the spindle in place.

glad you made it, and the repair is possible. also- when mine failed, i replaced it- but i discovered the side which did not fail had already been repaired by welding a 1/2" bolt to it. seemed to work well enough.

What about the large spring holding it up?

I really don't recommend driving a 123 with the torsion/antisway bar broken off... MB uses single arm control arms, and the T/A bar (mmmmm) does hold everything inline with the frame of the car, without it the wheels have a tendancy to tilt outward/inward during acceleration/braking.

IF ONLY I had known about that little kit. The same thing happened to a friend's 123 under a hard stop and we had to replace the sway bar (About $800) from dealer. Plus it was definately NOT a 20hr job. Taking the old one out was about 2hrs and putting the new one in and replacing the bushings took about 3hrs MAX. Vacuum lines need to be disconnected, Brake booster removed, Battery + Tray removed then just the UCA's (May aswell replace the bushings when you're in there). I would say changing the starter on a turbo 123 is harder than this.

One of the members (David4) had a similar problem that he solved by drilling and tapping a hole into the end of the rod (don't know how he managed to drill straight into the center; I know I would have trouble doing that). After which a bolt was screwed in.
If interested contact David4 for details.

Find a replacement at a junkyard. Its not overly hard to R&R.