Checked out a 84 300D today..

I felt like taking a road trip today so I checked out this 84 300D. 295K, runs good, but its a project car, i was looking for something like this, im not sure if i want it or not so you guys can take a look.

http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+A0+R1237138+Q359759862

Problems:

- Small oil leak (what diesel dosent have this)
- Trans pan leaks
- Needs ignition switch
- He rigged the glowplug system cause the timer stopped working, he said water got in the glowplug box, so I think its a corroded relay in there.
- Needs a good interior cleaning
- Left front wheel bearing
- Needs radio

Good things:

- Starts up fast
- Goes into gear quick and shifts good
- Exterior looks good, had quality repaid several years ago
- NO RUST WHAT SO EVER!!


I think it can be had for $300.00

On my way I had some fun with the 300D on 287 tonight, http://jtrsoft.hypermart.net/img/speed

Better pics of the tach for you non-belivers.

John

[Holson Adi]

WOW!

The 300D can actually go at 170km/h?!?

Even my W124 230E struggled accelerating to 160..
damn...

Lookin at these 'cool' and 'fun' pics of people and their W123's...
The urge to buy one is mounting.....

Anyway,
Why can't there be any good deals around my area..
I think after the final exams, I'm just gonna look for one elsewhere, take a plane there, and drive it home..

Turbo, buy the 84 just on principal alone... $600 bucks, common! For a rust free body? If if you year it apart, the car is worth 6 grand in parts!

And I always knew the 300 could fo 105... And from the looks of it, it still had 500 more rpm to go, so 110 is a sure thing! Thanks for the pics, they made my day.

[SW]

John,

Is your speedo accurate? My engine turns at 4000rpm around 85 mph. Of course, the scale on my speedo stops at 85 mph so I might have answered my own question. Does the '83 have a different rear end ratio? I always thought that only the 1985 turbodiesels had the taller ratio for a higher speed. I am not trying to cast doubt on your pictures. In fact, I am glad your car got to stretch its legs.

My speedo may be a few mph optimistic, but I assure you, that 100mph was all of 97 and that 105 was all of 102 or 103. Your car is probably capable of the same speeds mine is, so you may well have been going 95-100, too.

John

[speedy300Dturbo]

SW:

You can remove the restriction pin after the 85 mark, if you have a 1982 model. I did this, and the car (even before boost adjustment) would eventually pull to what I estimate to be 100mph.

[Ken300D]

First of all, my '82 300D must be geared significantly different from John's. This would make an interesting thread, such as "What speed do you register at 3000 RPM?" It would be interesting to compare different model years of the 300D and 300SD.

On the surface, the car seems to be a good deal. I'm not sure the tint is legal in my state......

In regard to the issues with the car, these are probably relatively simple compared to something with major engine or transmission problems. I'd have to wonder if the car had been properly maintained, of course.

Small Oil Leak - maybe the turbo oil return seals.
Trans Pan Leaks - probably a new filter/seal is in order anyway.
Ignition Switch - replacement item.
Glowplugs - As you say, probably the GP relay.
Wheel Bearing - Go ahead and do both sides.
Radio - You'd probably end up going with your preference of aftermarket radios anyway.

This is really just typical little stuff that is satisfying for the DIYer to fix. At $500-$600 for the car, it seems to be a good deal. If it were close to me I'd certainly consider it.

Here are some other things I'd check, now that I have learned a little more about the 300D.

- Pull up the floor mats and check the floorpan for rust.
- Open the trunk and check the inside of the fenders and the spare tire area for rust.
- Check the condition of the rubber suspension parts. Someone who has kept up with maintenance should probably have gotten at least some of them replaced by now.
- Check the dastardly plastic radiator for cracks at the hose connections
- Check the condition of the axle shaft boots (shredded = bad)

These are rather quick checks on typical 123 problem areas that could be expensive to repair (although not unreasonable when you get the car for $600.

I'm sure someone would tell you to check the compression on all the cylinders - but not an easy task. I wouldn't let anyone rip my injectors out to test compression either.

What else is good to look for on the 123s?

Ken

The car is a bit of a basket case. Say you pay $500 for it, put in another $700 to make it right (conservitive) and then you have $1200 into it. Use it for a while and before you know it its got over 300K on it (wich is good in my book) but the general public frowns on mileage like that, and it really hurts its resale value. I suppose you may be able to get $1200 for that with 310K miles, but the best thing to do (money wise) would be to fix it and drive it into the ground (400K+ miles).

John

[Ken300D]

You're absolutely right. You don't want to get a car like this for fix-up and resale in normal circumstances. By the time you get it fixed up nicely, it will be high-mileage with little resale value to the general public. Most people are terrified of anything with much over 100,000 miles, and completely afraid of 200K+. This is what happily keeps the price of those diesels affordable.

Seems like the best bargain is to buy one for yourself and keep it until its a "parts" car. I'm actually trying to calculate how long mine might last, and worrying about where the NEXT diesel is going to come from. The creampuffs with reasonable mileage and evidence of good maintenance are getting harder to find. I feel like I'm in one of those post-apocalypse Mel Gibson movies (Mad Max) where I'm trying to keep the ancient diesel technology running as long as possible.

I have to admit the interior condition of a used car is a big factor for me, even though everything can be fixed up. Just seeing a nasty interior makes me feel the driver was careless.

Just for interest, take a look at this car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595288712

I'm gonna watch this one just to see what the market will pay for it.

Ken
'82 300D

Ken

I am the high bidder on that car. If I can get it for ~$600, it will be mine. Just owning a 300D with almost 500K miles that runs and drives good is worth the $600 to me. I know i'm crazy.

John

[Ken300D]

It's good to know I'll have a potential buyer for my '82 in a few more years.

Good luck on the auction and I'll mark that one down as a "no bid" so you we don't compete for the same car. Besides, I would want one within easy driving distance for two trips - one to inspect and potentially one to pick up after purchase.

You can always part it out and then donate the shell to the fire department for fire/wreck practice certainly worth $600.