Well, I am about half done with my front suspension rebuild in my '85 300CD, and have been making some good progress. I finished both uppers, and got the passenger lower (everything) off. It's some exhausting work, but it was needed. Most everything looked OK before starting, but now that I am replacing this stuff, it all needed it.

I was looking at the lower ball joint, and it looks like it's going to need a special tool. After doing some searching, it looks like that's the case. Is there a trick to do it without the tool? If not, can I still do it with the springs in? I am renting the spring compressor, and have to get my car back together again in the next day or so.

I am guessing the x-nub pads are the rubber spacers on the top of the springs when installed. I went to my MB dealer and asked for 1 nub pads, they had no clue what I was talking about. I went to my indy, and he told me to get spacers at Autozone, he clearly had no clue either. Does anybody have the part numbers for the various nub spacers?

Oh yeah, I thought the coupes had progressive springs...mine are all but even. I can tell that all the rubber in my suspension is original, but of course I can't guarantee the PO didn't change them out before.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

O am in the middle of this as well.
I finally took mine into the local indy shop and had them pressed in. He showed me some that are directional, and have a groove in the edge. Watch for that.
I tried a lot of things and finally gave up!
You can build the rest and then place everything back together, support it well,
and then do the lower ones.

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

Here is a Thread concerning Lower Ball Joint removal.
Post #18 shows how I did it with out a special tool. But I would read the whole thread.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=231358

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I did it w/ the HF tool. I did have to torch one out. the other came out easily.

you can always bring the spindles and ball joints to a shop to be pressed, after the LCA's are done you can re-assemble, support the lca's and remove the compressor. install spindles later.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

I tried the HF tool and got no where. Could not get the thing to push it in straight. I have to do another one, so I would love to know what the secret is on getting it in correctly.

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

Are you speaking of the installation process using the HF Ball Joint Press?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes, installing it

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

I have not used one before but I have priced the Ball Joint Presses and what I can see from the ad pics some Presses have a wider "C" section than others (and look better built). This may make them easier to center so that they go straight in.
If the complete Steering Knuckle is off of the car it looks like you could use a piece of pipe or steel tubing that is has a 2" inside diameter and a Vice that will open up enough to accept it all and press on the ball joint.

Or with the right size ID tube it may be possible (with the knuckle resting on something that will not damage it); with care to beat it in with a heavy hammer.
Both would be easier if 2 people were involved.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

OK, thanks for the link Diesel911. I went through the thread and got the idea that you should only bother with the boot on the lower ball joint when it starts to go. I was going to do the whole thing while I was down there. There is nothing wrong with my boot I have on there, so should I just not mess with it?

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

If the boot is damaged, you must replace the entire ball joint, not just the rubber boot. You can get away with replacing the boot alone ONLY if you damage it during installation. Otherwise, you must assume dirt and water have entered the joint.

Replacing the lower ball joint is a PITA, so you might choose not to do it if the exist boot is undamaged and there is no known problem with the joint. With the steering knuckle off the car, a good joint will be difficult or impossible to move by hand and have absolutely no free play or grinding.

If you decide to replace the lower ball joints, I recommend taking the steering knuckle to an indy who has the MB ball joint press. Depending on your location, it may cost you anywhere from $10-30/side to have the new joint pressed in, but it's worth it. To keep the cost down, you can remove the old ball joint with a BFH (taking care not to damage the hole in the knuckle) and cleaning up the hole. Clean the axle and wrap it with a rag and tape to avoid damage.

My thought on a Ball Joint with a ripped boot if it is still good and you do not want to replace the boot; leave it there until it wears out. Of course ripped boot = shorter life for the Ball Joint but why go through the trouble of changing it unless it is no good.
Or, wait and change it when you are doing some other suspension work.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel