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  #16  
Old 09-17-2008, 09:17 PM
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Thanks, TF. So just to verify -- what affects the needle movement if I'm not turning the rotor, the tightening of the axle nut? Didn't see this detail in my version of the shop manual, so huge thanks again.

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  #17  
Old 09-17-2008, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cewyattjr View Post
Thanks, TF. So just to verify -- what affects the needle movement if I'm not turning the rotor, the tightening of the axle nut?
Start with the indicator slightly preloaded and adjusted to zero. Then pull outward on the rotor/hub, as if attempting to pull the hub off of the axle. Note amount of indicator deflection on the dial. Then adjust the nut to give more or less movement, as required to get the desired .0004-.0008" of deflection.

Note: you are not looking for .004-.008." You want to see the needle move slightly less than one increment (.001) on the gauge.

Last edited by tangofox007; 09-17-2008 at 10:23 PM.
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  #18  
Old 09-18-2008, 07:54 AM
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I totally get it now. Thanks very much!
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1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid
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  #19  
Old 09-18-2008, 02:50 PM
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dial indicator

Which dial indicator did you buy, and how much was the cost?

Any chance you might have time to post a pic of it?

Thanks, Dave
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  #20  
Old 09-18-2008, 03:14 PM
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I did a wheel bearing on my W124 this weekend - the same tight tolerance applies to the end float or play. I used a mitutoyo gauge;

http://www.mitutoyo.co.uk/MitProd/mtopr.nsf/UNIDS/F255B23AEA15F53A80256953002EAC76!Opendocument

Specifically, the 1013F

However, any gauge that can measure down to 0.01mm should be OK - you shouldn't need to spend a fortune.
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  #21  
Old 09-18-2008, 03:26 PM
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Here's mine, a Cen-Tech



From Harbor Freight, I got the gauge for $15 and the magnetic stand for about $15. I'm done with them, so they are available if someone wants them.

-Chuck
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1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
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  #22  
Old 09-18-2008, 05:15 PM
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If it worked, keep it for for the 2mm lift for chain stretch and to do the wheel bearings again. They do need periodic servicing.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #23  
Old 09-18-2008, 10:52 PM
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I use mine frequently, too.
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  #24  
Old 09-22-2008, 08:35 AM
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions/comments. New bearings are in. Huge improvement... like BUTTAH!
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1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid
http://www.chuckwyatt.com
http://www.wordimpressive.com
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2008, 06:08 PM
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I have just installed new bearing and seals on my '85 300D. Read this thread afterwards, but it is still interesting and partly mirrors my experiences.

I bought a dial indicator and stand as a kit on sale from Princess Auto (like Harbor Freight) for $16.xx . What surprised me was that the allowed play was less than one division on the dial. (0.0004" to 0.0008"). Moving the nut about 1/8" on circumference changed the reading from zero to the specified amount.

One side stuck on mine too when first putting the hub on - I figured it was just slightly misaligned and gave it a few light blows and it slipped home.

One thing that makes adjustment a bit difficult, is the grease that is everywhere - have to squeeze some of it out of the way when pushing and pulling on the hub.

One other minor thing - I had trouble putting the grease caps back on - There is air trapped and grease around edge makes an air tight seal - the one side kept popping back off! I cleaned grease off inside edge of cap, also gave cap a little squeeze in vice and then pushed it on - stayed this time!

I originally bought bearings and seals from NAPA - Bearings are SKF and fine - BR3 and BR5, I think, But seal they gave me were 50x70x8 instead of 50x70x13.5. (They don't have the thicker ones). Bought proper seals from dealer at a lower price!

Finally a question!

Has anyone checked the end play after driving car for a few days? Thinking it might be an idea if bearings tend to get looser as they wear in.
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  #26  
Old 11-06-2008, 07:13 PM
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Hi Graham,

I've not re-checked the end play, but I do think it is not a bad idea at all. I feel like my tracking feels a little more "floaty" so it may be an issue. I had some really loud bearing noise, sounded like an old prop airplane at high altitude flight. The bearing replacement fixed that!

-Chuck
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1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid
http://www.chuckwyatt.com
http://www.wordimpressive.com
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  #27  
Old 11-06-2008, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Mount the stand somewhere on the hub/rotor. Dial gauge on the end of the axle. Don't spin anything. Pull on the rotor/hub, adjusting the axle nut until you get just .0005" (actually .0004-.0008") movement on the indicator. (Approx half way between zero and the first index marking.)
1st post so be kind...

For a Model 123 1985 300D, my CD manual states "Place test instrument (015) on front wheel hub and set dial gauge (022) to approx. 2 mm preload." 2 mm is 0.0787 inches.

So my question is, what am I missing if the freeplay should be .0005 inches?

Did I mention this is my 1st post...

Thanks everyone & this is great site.
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  #28  
Old 11-06-2008, 08:43 PM
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i believe a 2mm preload would simply be pushing the indicator towards the hub (so the probe must travel into the indicator) by 2mm or so. This will ensure that the indicator is not at the end of it's travel, and that the lash has been taken out of the gears, etc.
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  #29  
Old 11-06-2008, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cewyattjr View Post
Hi Graham,

I've not re-checked the end play, but I do think it is not a bad idea at all. I feel like my tracking feels a little more "floaty" so it may be an issue. I had some really loud bearing noise, sounded like an old prop airplane at high altitude flight. The bearing replacement fixed that!

-Chuck
I also had a bearing noise, but not that loud - This is one of my bearing cones (click to enlarge)
Attached Thumbnails
Help...! Front Bearing install: what am I doing wrong??-frontbearing.jpg  
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  #30  
Old 11-06-2008, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
i believe a 2mm preload would simply be pushing the indicator towards the hub (so the probe must travel into the indicator) by 2mm or so. This will ensure that the indicator is not at the end of it's travel, and that the lash has been taken out of the gears, etc.
x2

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