Hi all,
Just a quick question... How much has to come off the crankshaft in order to replace the seal?
The crankshaft looks so cozy in there.
I REALLY don't want to play with the timing at all.
And, can I loosen just the main caps or do I have to do the rod caps too?

Thanks,
Nathan.

83 240D

P.S. I have the engine upside down on a stand right now.

I did one last spring. Found a little ware on the rod bearings, mains were fine but I replaced the timing chain when I lifted the crank out to get to everything and measure clearances.
Didn't try lifting the rear of the crank w/o cutting the timing chain lose. Using the "bubble method" to time your IP with the engine out is a snap (no fuel line hooked up) so if your chain has more than 5 degrees stretch this would be the time plus you should check all bearings with "plasticgauge" (sp?)

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

It has about 4 deg (by lining up marks) the engine only has 80k on it...
Maybe I should just replace the lower seal...

Nathan.

take it out, replacing that seal takes more force than the fsm displays.

make good, permanent marks (nail polish rules) on your cam sprocket at one tooth and the corresponding link. Do the same on the crankshaft sprocket and the chain. You should now have 2 links marked on your chain that match the cam to the crank.
The chain will not fall off or skip on the IP gear, don't seat it. As long as you dont allow the chain to go through the block too much - keep your marks where they want to be, but if it happens, the longer distance b/w the marks goes on the banana rail side.

if you don't undo the front of the crank, get someone to help remove the crank so you can get the chain overt all those disks etc.

everything will go back to the timing you originally had

2.

you could remove the mains and lift the crank with the rods still on and hold the crank in some kind of homemade cradle.. sounds iffy and not worth your time. remove the crank.

__________________

I would replace both halves of the seal, using a razor to leave 1 mm of seal standing proud at all four ends of the new seal. Take your time here.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

once you take that seal out and compare it to the new one.. you will deeply appreciate the time and energy you are spending to this the right way.

__________________

Isn't there a little pin that pokes up into the rope seal which keeps it from rotating? Or was that on the cap that I remember seeing this?

__________________
For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

yes

__________________

There is a pin there on both halves, the crankshaft cap and up in the block.
When I replaced that seal on my 81SD I had to first pull the engine and then I was able to lift the crank just high enough to get to the upper seal. One expense you should prepare for is if that engine has stretch bolts it is reccomended that they be replaced and not reused. At least it was in the 81SD. cost me about $100 a few years back.
The drank seal comes in a long rope. Do what Stevo said. Be sure to work the seal into place and then shave it a mm long. I used a flat scraper to get the knife above the block and cut off the seal rope. You want an extra mm on all four ends sticking out there so they will crush together and form a solid seal.

You only need to do that if there out of spec... I think it's 7.1 mm's around the skinny part.
(Don't quote me on that. I don't have the FSM in front of me.) At least the place I got parts from has them for about 3 or 4 dollars,
Mercedes brand.
If that's the case I might just put in new bearings on the rods....

How would you replace the bolts with the rods in block? Seems cramped....

Nathan. (There I go trailing off again.)

are you kidding me? reuse the bolts...

__________________
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.

always, the voice of reason responds

__________________

Yah, Worst case is it snaps when I toured them and I have to replace it.

I was able to do it with out taking the crank out all the way. I did have to undo the cam sprocket though.

Man was it a pain the donkey to get the seal in there though. The new seal seems to be a little bit wider then the old one too, adding to the joy.

I should be torquing every thing today. I'll let you know how that goes.

At least all the bearing looked good. Maybe this really does have only 80k on it

Nathan

Good show, on those seals, I lay em on their sides, (since there are square the side I tap them on becomes the "side") and give them a gentle "flattening", they fit real easy now

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"