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#1
09-21-2008, 01:07 PM
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84 300D wont shut off and no breaks!!!
I have a 1984 300D... I am getting it repainted to make the paint look like it is new next week. It had set a while with a fuel problem. I got it fixed and now when I go to shut the car off it wont turn off... and the breaks went out. All the breaks and things was changed about a month before it broke down with the fuel problem. Now that its running agian I have no break pressure, but plenty of fluid. When I push the stop button on the engine to shut it off it wont go down far enough. I was wondering if the linkage may be off any... I need breaks and a shut off ASAP so I can have the paint redone!!! Someone please help me!!!
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#2
09-21-2008, 01:20 PM
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You have a vacuum problem. Either the main vacuum line is broken or the vacuum pump has failed or the brake booster has failed.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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#3
09-21-2008, 01:38 PM
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Is the pedal hard? or does it bottom out? A pedal that bottoms out could be a fluid problem. If it's hard, no boost is no vacuum or booster or master cyl maybe.
If it's still idling and you haven't shut it off yet, open up the air cleaner and cover the intake with your hand or a piece of metal- anything clean that won't fold up and get sucked in.
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#4
09-21-2008, 04:13 PM
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My pedals go to the floor when I hit the breaks. I changed the hose coming from the brakes box.... Maybe they need to be bled. As far as it shuting off... I played with the linkage today and I think there maybe a problem with it but really unsure. The linkage that connects to the engine may need to be shorter but it will cause the car to idle faster.
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#5
09-21-2008, 04:24 PM
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I'd suggest that in fixing the fuel problem, a vacuum hoseor fitting got pulled loose or broken. Start at the main vacuum hose to the brake booster and follow every line looking for a loose or broken connection.
__________________
Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=296386
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#8
09-22-2008, 10:35 AM
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If your brake pedal is going to the floor as opposed to being very hard, I'll revise my initial diagnosis. You have two problems. One is a vacuum problem of some sort causing the engine to not shut off. You can shut if off manually with the shut off lever next to the valve cover. You'll need to check the vacuum system; ie all connections and vacuum level to find the source of this problem. Pulling a vacuum on the shut off valve (back of IP, brown vacuum line going to it )will show whether the shut off valve itself is the problem. It should shut down when vacuum is applied.
Brakes are a different problem. If pedal is going to the floor, there's a problem in the hydraulic system.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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#9
09-22-2008, 11:33 AM
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Sounds familiar
I kind of had the the same thing happen to me. I would be driving, the brakes would go out, the trani would shift crazy and it wouldn't shut off. I had the vacuum lines replaced but still had the same problem. I ended up getting a new vacuum pump, problem solved! I've had no problems since.
__________________
76 MG Midget 78 Datsun 280Z 86 Peugeot 505 01 Subaru Outback “Owning a car is like owning a dog. Every now and then, it craps on the carpet — but it’s still your dog.” - Jeremy Clarkson
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#10
09-22-2008, 12:01 PM
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I have to agree with kerry.
brakes are going to be very hard to push if it's vacuum. if the pedal goes to the floor, then you have air in your master cylinder or you have no fluid in the front reservoir. make sure you have fluid in BOTH parts of your brake reservoir. I have seen vacuum problems make the stop lever not work. but I'll bet the car had idle issues, and the P.O. adjusted the idle up so far that the stop lever can't work. have fun now. and take pictures.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#12
09-28-2008, 01:21 PM
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How Would I test the vacuum system? Would I need to change the pump or the evap.? I have no idea where these are on the car, I was just reading about them on here and was wondering if maybe that could be my problem.
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#13
09-28-2008, 01:43 PM
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You need a MityVac to take readings at various points in the vacuum system. It will tell you whether it is the pump or something else, depending on where you take the readings. Without a Mity Vac, you can do some things but not a lot. Taking the main line from the vacuum pump loose and putting your finger over it will tell you if you have any vacuum but it's not precise enough to diagnose beyond that.
Don't know what you mean by 'evap'.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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