|
|
|
|
|
#1
09-26-2008, 07:18 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Break-in period for 617.95 engine
I have yet to read an owner's manual for the 123 series. What are the specifics for the break-in period on these engines? Duration, RPM max,..etc.
after installing new bearings in the bottom end, it seems worthwhile to adhere to a break-in period. 
|
|
#2
09-26-2008, 09:01 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
bottom end
Tell me about your new bearings.
Did you replace the pistons and sleves and all that or did you just do the bearings...
|
|
#3
09-26-2008, 09:07 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
no ,i have great compression, I am not tooled up to do the pistons, and the engine would have been junk if it needed them.
the throws seized and melted to the crank most likely b/c of an accident where the oil pressure was lost. i replaced all bearings on the crank and had it polished. removed the head for a thorough cleaning and valves tem seals and to inspect the valves and guides for wear. I spent an entire day cleaning the valves train and the sludge in the intake bores. uhh.. yeah, just bearings, seals, head gasket, other stuff that gwts old and worn / brittle that might as well be done while the engine is out. Last edited by jt20; 09-27-2008 at 05:46 PM. Reason: typo
|
|
#4
09-26-2008, 09:15 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
stems
did you replace the valve stems or did you leave the valves alone and just clean and adjust.
SO the head had a lot of sludge. where else did you find sludge.... Did you replace the timing chain
|
|
#5
09-27-2008, 05:45 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
it appears that break-in periods are often suggested for the sake of mating cylinder walls to piston rings properly and the removal of that debris.
since my head was off and valves out, i may want to adjust my valves within 500 miles
|
|
#6
09-27-2008, 07:18 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I would say no break in period for bearings only.
Run it! Tom W
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.  [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
|
|
#8
09-27-2008, 07:50 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Since it is assumed the crank was not quite as new I would drive fairly easy and avoid high loading situations for the first few hundred miles. Probably no scientific basis but it will not hurt to do this in my opinion. The oil cushion has a better chance of staying established till a slow burnishing adjustment takes place if any is needed. I know that should not happen but in the real world suspect it does sometimes with no real damage resulting. For example the oil cushion can have greater difficulty if there is a slight taper present on a journal.
If the rods were exactly as new, crank in the same condition then it probably would not really matter at all. Yet I would still baby it a little for a hundred miles or so. Any evidence of the old bearings wear pattern was probably lost when the original bearings got so hot. This thought is based on a rebuilt engine a long time ago. I advised the guy to drive it conservativly for a few hundred miles. He drove it right away on the highway at about the engines max rpms. Threw a rod. The exact true cause of this problem was unknown. It was an english car back in the time when some of their engines needed a rebuild at about thirty thousand miles. At least I did not assemble the engine. In retrospect they were pretty fragile and not really designed for north american highway use. Certainly there is no way to know if driving it easily for the first bit may or may not have made any difference. Erring on the side of caution is usually worthwhile especially if any unknowns are present. Again just my opinions and others will vary as they should. I can only hope there is tollerance for peoples gut feelings and opinions. I know I have no absolute science for this one. Last edited by barry123400; 09-27-2008 at 07:58 PM.
|
|
#9
09-27-2008, 09:01 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Typically I would say an OM617 takes about 70,000 miles to brake in
__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday  )(  Kalifornistani emissons  )white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank) desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation) http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png
|
|
#10
09-27-2008, 09:34 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Ask any seller on ebay and it's barely broken in at 300,000 miles. -CTH
|
|
#11
09-27-2008, 09:48 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Yes, I am rolling my eyes, sarcasticly.
__________________
daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more
|
|
#12
09-28-2008, 01:59 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have been gentle with the rpms.
but do I really have to wait 70k miles?? I will floor it after the first 2 oil changes and the turbo is rebuilt. Promise. p.s. bearing wear patterns were discernible on old bearings, since the lack of grinding.. one can only assume the same patterns will occur... if Kolbenschmidt bearings are that accurate...
|
|
#13
09-28-2008, 02:06 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Mahle
Mahle
__________________
'84 300SD sold 124.128
|
|
#15
09-28-2008, 02:17 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
__________________
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
