my 300SDL is making a sqwacking noise when the front end moves and the whole car shakes when cruising...the tires were balanced and the front end was aligned...its that one shock.

How does one go about doing that? How difficult is it!?

Also, how hard is it to replace the window regulator in this car?

If the front end was aligned we have to assume they did a reasonable assessment of the stearing system. Assuming they are not thoroughly familiar with MB steering, they might have missed the steering damper (horizontal shock under the engine) and the idler arm bushings. These items are easy to replace but neither will cause a squawking noise.

Replacing the front shocks is straightforward. You should replace the pair unless the bad one is a defective new unit. It's been a while since I worked on a 126 but I'm pretty sure the shock is held by 2 bolts into the lower control arm and a locknut on top. First release the locknut. The rod onto which the locknut is tightened will have either flats to take an 8mm wrench or internal hex to take a 5mm(?) hex bit. Hold the rod so it doesn't turn as you remove the locknut. Raise the car and secure on jackstands. Don't set the jackstands under the control arms. You want the control arms to hang down. THEN set blocks under the lower control arms. The shock limits the control arm travel. If you let it drop beyond the limits of the shock, you might damage the brake line and ABS sensor line and who knows what else. Remove the two bolts holding the bottom of the shock then remove the shock. Turn the steering wheel for better access to the bolts. Note the order of bushings at the top of the shock. The new undeformed bushings will look very different so look also at the instructions that come with the shocks. There's probably a torque setting for the locknut but I don't have a torque wrench that will work in that situation so I tighten by feel. The locknut will bottom on the rod, at least it does on Bilteins so that's where I stop tightening. Don't let the rod turn as you tighten the locknut or you'll risk premature leaks in the shock. It's as difficult as that

If the window glass moves separately from the motor or if it only goes one direction with the motor, the problem is usually the a broken sliding jaw (no idea why it's called a jaw but it does slide). It's a mostly plastic piece that connects the lifting arm to a horizontal track. Replacement jaws are $10-15. The regulator has to come out of the door unless you're one of those magicians who can peen an aluminum pin and not break the window glass, dent the door skin or set the door hinges out of alignment. Removing the regulator from the door is all the more difficult by the US spec side intrusion beam. Many before you have done it, only Brian Carlton and Hit Man X enjoy it The negator spring on the lifting arm has an appetite for fingers so be very careful when you release it from the motor. I don't remember which nuts and bolts to loosen to release the regulator but there are some nuts and bolts set precisely so the glass moves smoothly. Don't touch those nuts and bolts!

Sixto
87 300D

No, I know for sure it isnt the jaw...the whole regulator is bad, its missing 2 inches of teeth on the gear that meets the window motor...the window rolls up and down fine but wont go all the way up.

I apologize also for a bad description on the sound it makes...its a CREAKING sound like a naked fat woman going down a dry metal slide...which is why I assumed the shock was bad. But while we're on the subject, whats the purpose of a steering damper?

I've never heard anyone go down a dry metal slide naked so I don't know how that sounds My 300D creaks and groans a little from the rear suspension. The shocks are new so that's not it.

The steering damper helps keep the car stable at speed and reduces how much the steering wheel kicks when you hit a pothole or bump.

Sixto
87 300D

...more like a creaking noise...this post was written a little late but now BOTH shocks are creaking in the front end...if you press down on the hood above both wheels you can hear it pretty audibly. Whats even more strange is it happened after the brake pads were changed...can shocks just FAIL like that?

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"Cool Blue"

My only suggestion is to try to compress the shock piston below the fender opening and swing the shock toward the outside of the vehicle. With the shock in position, the access to one of those two cap screws is miserable. You cannot get a socket in there and it's 15 minutes going 1/3 turn at a time.

Reinstallation is the same. Bolt the bottom of the shock in place before swinging the shock into position and allowing the piston to expand upward through the fenderwell.

Frustration level reduction-------->Priceless.

Ahhh!, now that IS priceless info. The sound of these shocks are driving me CRAZY! These shocks are a little different than some of the others Ive taken off and replaced (mostly trucks).

So anyway, Ive been shopping for replacement shocks and the 2 brands are Bilstein for $100 a piece and the other cheap brand (Gabriel) for $25 a piece. What are the advantages one over the other?

Gabriel: http://www.autozone.com/R,3106259/vehicleId,1132401/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,2096/partType,00660/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Bilstein: http://www.autozone.com/R,1429556/vehicleId,1132401/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,2096/partType,00660/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

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"Cool Blue"

It's pretty much agreed that the Bilsteins are the preferred choice by a large margin if you want the proper performance from the vehicle.

Send me a PM.

Bilsteins should come with a lifetime warranty.

Compare Autozone's prices with the FastLane link under the Buy Parts tab at the top of the page. FastLane sponsors this site. If nothing else, you're way ahead dealing with Phil vs anyone at Autozone, even William Rhodes

Sixto
87 300D

You sure it's the shocks? How do your lower Ball Joint boosts look? Mine groans too, but I'm almost positive it is the ball joints. Another front end to rebuild

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I rather replace both the front shocks than a window regulator --- there's just no enough room inside that panel for my hands and head. It's hard to see in there.

I bought cheap shocks for Coda last year ---- Wagner's perhaps?

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more