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#1
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Transmission Woes - Help!
Work done to Transmission:
- new filter & pan gasket - flushed torque converter and pan - refilled with Amisol Synthetic Trans Fluid - Transmission fluid level OK Problem: when the car is cold there is a vibration noise which sounds like a ball hitting the ground and it increases in frequency when I press the gas pedal. If I put the car in neutral the noise/vibration goes away. It shifts into drive and reverse just fine and shifts through all gears normally. After about 20min of driving or when the transmission gets warm the noise isnt as frequent. I only get this noise/vibration when I accelerate and after I reach about 30mph or so it goes away unless the engine/trans is still cold. I am sure it is coming from the torque converter because when I put the car in neutral the noise is gone. I recently replaced the engine mounts and trans mount and engine shocks. Could this noise be from anything else? BTW, Flex Discs are good as well. 1. Any ideas where this noise could be coming from? I am 99% sure its the torque converter.. 2. Are the remanufactured torque converters on EBAY any good? 3. How hard would it be for a garage mechanic to remove and replace the torque converter? 4. Could it be that the torque converter is loose? How would I check? 5. Anyone know of a trustworthy/reasonable transmission shop in western suburbs of Chicago? (Lombard - Bolingbrook area) Thank you in advance for all your input. This forum has been a tremendous help - I would have given up on this car if it wasnt for you guys (and girls?) !!
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1984 300SD aka "Sweat and Tears" 2002 Honda CBR F4i "Rising Sun" 2005 Yamaha V-Star Custom "Badass Cruiser"
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#2
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one more thing......
This car was towed about 120 miles with the rear wheels on the ground and the transmission in neutral.
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1984 300SD aka "Sweat and Tears" 2002 Honda CBR F4i "Rising Sun" 2005 Yamaha V-Star Custom "Badass Cruiser"
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#3
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At the forward lower edge of the transmission is an oval access hole. There might be a cover but it's missing in many cars this age. Rotate the engine in the normal direction it turns (CW as viewed from the front of the car) until you see bolt heads through the access hole. The torque converter is attached to the flex plate by 6 bolts. The bolts are clustered in pairs. You can about get 2 bolt heads at once in the access hole. The torque spec is pretty low for these small bolts so don't get carried away tightening them.
Replacing the torque converter is only as difficult as pulling the transmission. Loosen the 6 bolts, push the torque converter towards the transmission, remove the transmission with the torque converter. There's a keyhole in the side of the transmission through which you can stick a locking device (a plain bolt might work) so the torque converter doesn't fall out of place while you maneuver the transmission. If the torque converter isn't securely attached to the flex plate, it's likely the flex plate is torn. You can't really see it until you remove the torque converter but metal shavings in the bellhousing are an indicator. The flex plate is attached to the crankshaft by 12 bolts that have a rotational spec in addition to a torque spec; that is, you tighten to some Nm value then turn 90* or something like that. Neither the torque converter nor flex plate would be damaged by flat towing the car. That damage would be inside the transmission. Sixto 87 300D |
#4
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Quote:
If the flex plate isnt torn and the bolts look tight (to the converter) is it safe to assume that the torque converter is shot? Are the rebuilt converters on ebay any good?
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1984 300SD aka "Sweat and Tears" 2002 Honda CBR F4i "Rising Sun" 2005 Yamaha V-Star Custom "Badass Cruiser"
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#5
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Flat towing damages the rear oil pump, and other internal tranny parts...usually means tranny rebuild time...
Personally, I would not trust an e-bay TC.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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