Ok, its a 87 d, the project was to replace seals and gaskets,while trying to unclip the rod connecting the governor to the rack I removed the stop pin to in order to better see the clip. I pulled the rack out only about 3/8", just enough to see and understand the clip, I guess this was the wrong thing to do, engine will run but hard to start, dies below 2500 rpms.
Anyone have a cut sheet on the pump an or can I correct what ever I DID?

Remove pump from engine. Take it to Injection-shop....

Best way.

Should never dissassemble any part of the governor. Its all pre-set and easily disturbed. No amount of 'fiddling' with it will get it right without a Test-Plan and Pump test bed--you could end up destroying the engine if you got it wrong on one of your attempts to restore correct operation....

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

did you pull the IP from the car? you could have messed up the timing installing it if you did.

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1979 240D with a 617 turbo diesel.

Might check to be certain thiere isnt any air leaks in the supply line. Beyond that, it might be cheaper to find a donor IP than to recalibrate and rebuild the one you have.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Ok, I got it running again, surging a bit on idle though. First of all I did not adjust anything on the govenor, I disconnected it from the pump to replace seals and gaskets. My error was removing the rail stop bolt to better understand the clip attaching the rod form the govenor to rail. As I now know doing so allowed the 6 pump levers to disingage from the rail. Regarding the surging I not so sure what is going on, the rpms drop when I uplug the coil on the back of th govenor so it working. I also removed and replace the oring on u7 located on the back of the pump assy, I'm not sure how to test it. I only drove the car about 5 miles yesterday, I'll drive it some more today and see it improves any. As far a donor pump, anyone know the going price. I'm westen North Caroliona, found one in a local yard yesterday for $350.00.