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  #1  
Old 10-17-2008, 11:10 PM
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stripped lug bolt...suggestions?

i noticed today i had a flat tire, so i went to take the wheel off to patch the tire. and i got the first 4 lugs off but the fifth wouldnt come off. it just spins freely, i had to apply pressure as i backed out the bolt.

i am assuming that this is my wheel hub that is stripped? i had the tires put on when the car was inspected i guess it is too late to go back and blame it on the tech. any ideas for a quick fix so i dont have to buy a new hub?
btw this is on my 81 300d.

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  #2  
Old 10-18-2008, 01:02 AM
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stripped bolt/nut

I did this too years ago. But on an 88 Mustang.
Just guessing here, and I would think there are similar ways to fix the problem on a Mercedes. I used a ballpeen hammer and pounded the bad stud off the hub.
Then got a new stud with nut from Napa auto parts.
Poked the new stud back through the hole left by removing the old one, and put the nut on wrenching it down to "draw" the new stud into place.
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  #3  
Old 10-18-2008, 01:16 AM
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run a tap in to clean the threads, then run a new bolt in the hole and see if it will hold torque, if not then yes you will need a new hub, or a PNP hub
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  #4  
Old 10-18-2008, 01:27 AM
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If the threads won't clean up with a tap use a heli-coil.The finished job will actually be stronger than the original thread! We used to install them regularly on aluminum race heads to keep rocker studs from pulling out of the aluminum bosses.
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Last edited by Johnt49; 10-18-2008 at 01:36 AM.
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  #5  
Old 10-18-2008, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnt49 View Post
If the threads won't clean up with a tap use a heli-coil.The finished job will actually be stronger than the original thread!
Problem is i dont think there is enough metal to even hold a heli-coil.
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  #6  
Old 10-18-2008, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cervan View Post
Problem is i dont think there is enough metal to even hold a heli-coil.
Then tack weld a nut to the back side of the flange. Not enough mass & too close to the axis to effect balance.
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  #7  
Old 10-18-2008, 01:44 AM
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Tap for Hub

Mercedes makes available a "Special" tap for this very purpose
(I'm sure a tap of the correct Twist and diameter will work[AND be much less] )
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  #8  
Old 10-18-2008, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
Mercedes makes available a "Special" tap for this very purpose
(I'm sure a tap of the correct Twist and diameter will work[AND be much less] )
Since when does Mercedes offer anything "special" for less than commonplace hardware?
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  #9  
Old 10-18-2008, 02:12 AM
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Especial Pricing Structure

Petite Humor

All "Mercedes" tools acquired from the franchisee are Especially Priced
(whether they say Baum,Hazet,Klann,Etc.) to assist the customer in
lightening the load of pocketbook or wallet.
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  #10  
Old 10-18-2008, 05:39 AM
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Front or Rear hub??

If it's a Front Hub, a used one should be easy to locate.....and change out.

A Rear Hub poses greater problems.....

SB
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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
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  #11  
Old 10-18-2008, 05:41 AM
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Exclamation Think about this.....!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdplayer View Post
I did this too years ago. But on an 88 Mustang.
Just guessing here, and I would think there are similar ways to fix the problem on a Mercedes. I used a ballpeen hammer and pounded the bad stud off the hub.
Then got a new stud with nut from Napa auto parts.
Poked the new stud back through the hole left by removing the old one, and put the nut on wrenching it down to "draw" the new stud into place.
Have you ever changed a tire on a Benz.....??

SB
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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG
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  #12  
Old 10-18-2008, 09:03 AM
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The threaded area is about 1/2" thick so you should be able to heli coil it.
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  #13  
Old 10-18-2008, 02:00 PM
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I would heli coil it. If you chose not to then get a used hub at a junk dealer and install it.
You will need to redo the bearings.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWheelBearings

Dave
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  #14  
Old 10-18-2008, 06:42 PM
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Flame suit ON

IF you can avail yourself of the proper length insert(Call 'em and see Monday)

Timesert is a much more substantial repair than the Helicoil.
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stripped lug bolt...suggestions?-screenhunter_04-oct.-18-18.38.jpg   stripped lug bolt...suggestions?-screenhunter_05-oct.-18-18.39.jpg  
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  #15  
Old 10-19-2008, 05:33 AM
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Thumbs up Thanks for that.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
IF you can avail yourself of the proper length insert(Call 'em and see Monday)

Timesert is a much more substantial repair than the Helicoil.
Thanks, a huge improvement over Heli-Coil......

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG
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