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  #1  
Old 10-17-2008, 11:25 PM
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Removing alternator nightmare

What I originally thought was a tensioner spring problem was actually a renegade pulley that came off of my alternator. I figured that I had to get the pulley reinstalled so I looked at old post to get the alternator out. I got the top bolt off but the bottom was a real b.. and end up stripping most of the top groves of the star bolt. Any suggestions on getting this bolt out? Thought possibly removing the fan and or radiator to give me more leverage or at least room to hammer in the proper socket. Any help would be appreciated.


Mitchell

99 e300

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  #2  
Old 10-18-2008, 10:51 PM
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I have not seen that alternator on a 99 e300 so this is only gerneral advice.
If you think that the correct socket will still bight on do what you need to do to make room.
If you think that the bolt end is too buggered up for the regular socket to work (if there is room) it may be that those rounded bolt external Ezie out type sockets might work. They cost in the $20-$25 range and Sears, Orchad hardware (OSH), Harbor Freight (imported), and other hardware stores have them. The ones I bought at Sears are US made.
Heat from a Propane tourch is often helpful to loosen things on the end where the threads are.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 10-18-2008 at 11:01 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-18-2008, 10:59 PM
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Irwin Bolt Extractor

Irwin makes a set of 10 Bolt extractor that are basically a left handed socket that has spiral grooves that grab the head and bite into it, the more you torque it during removal the deeper the socket bites. Takes a 3/8ths ratchet handle.

they are $25 the set at Lowes or Home Despot.

You can seat them using a hammer then insert the ratchet or breaker bar and have at it.

The other thing that can help is a Beeswax candle, use the wax and a heat source. Heat the bolt, place the beeswax candle on the threads and the wax will be drawn into the threads in the hole and lube it and brake the bond.
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Old 10-19-2008, 12:16 AM
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I tried using a bolt extractor like that before, it did bite right in, and then when I applied force to it it snapped off like a twig. $5 down the drain in 1/10th of a second.... I am leery of them....
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  #5  
Old 10-19-2008, 12:27 AM
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Success sort of

Thanks for the advice, I'll definately give those a try next time. This time around I used brute force on the intercooler attachment that the alternator bolt tightens. My theory was if I got those out of the way then the bolt should be loose. After taking off the other two bolts attaching the intercooler to the car, I proceeded to hammer away at the at attachment. Eventually it bent and slipped off. Now the problem is straightening it out so I can reattach it. Wasn't the prettiest job but finally got it off.

Mitchell
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  #6  
Old 10-19-2008, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I tried using a bolt extractor like that before, it did bite right in, and then when I applied force to it it snapped off like a twig. $5 down the drain in 1/10th of a second.... I am leery of them....
Are you talking about the External Socket type Bolt Extractors or the Ezie out type that you drill a hole down the center of the bolt?
I have broken off the internal Ezie-Out types that you need to drill the hole for. Successful use with them depends on drilling the hole straight down the center of the bolt, using the correct size drill bit (which I often did not have), the application of heat and penetrating oil.
The ones that have a spiral will often expand the bolt and make it harder to remove unless the bolt is very hard; the tapered square ones work well on soft stuff like Brass but on vary hard bolts the Ezie-Out edges get damaged.
I would not use anything that is imported unless from Germany, England or Japan. As the control of the heat treating (snapped off!) is iffy.
Sometimes things are so stuck nothing but drilling the bolt out and chasing the threads with a tap works; Ezie-Outs are your last ditch against doing that.
I have a set of the External types (Sears) but have not used them yet to comment on them.
They were not selling them when I worked as a Mechanic so I never got to use them on the job.
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  #7  
Old 10-19-2008, 05:44 PM
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Sears has a great tool for removing bolts with boogered up heads. Can't for the life of me remember what they're called but they look like a socket with spiral grooves in them that will bite when running the bolt out and when turned the other way [clockwise] loosen up and come right off the head of the bolt.. I have used mine to get shackle bolts out of boat trailers that have been in salt water. Never have I had one break. The socket that is. Had many bolts break.
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Old 10-19-2008, 08:14 PM
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That sounds like the IRWIN set from: Lowes, Home Depot, Autozone, NAPA, Advance Auto, et al.
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2008, 10:31 PM
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x2

Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I tried using a bolt extractor like that before, it did bite right in, and then when I applied force to it it snapped off like a twig. $5 down the drain in 1/10th of a second.... I am leery of them....
Same idea, same result. Hate those things. Then, you end up with hardened carbide bit broken off inside the bolt. Dam that sucks. Why the hell VW used 10 star bolts on their VR6 flywheels is beyond me!!

If it were me, I would remove alternator and work on it on a bench. Propane touch, sledge, sockets, ect... Easy outs are nothing but a last ditch effort.
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  #10  
Old 10-20-2008, 08:58 AM
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Kroil the night before will always do good, and shocking the bolt with sharp strikes also helps greatly.

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