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#1
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A Quick Question on lock grease (???)
Hey, everybody, I finally got around to repairing that trunk lock that had me locked out in Red Wing, MN, and I have it apart in about 30 pieces on my table. After removing and cleaning, by way of a great how to link by bgkast, I'm ready to put it back together. There wasn't any mention of grease in bgkast's link. Can anybody tell me what the best grease (or oil) is for a lockset before I put the springs and blocks back in? It was a pretty gunked up mess, but it looks like there was some sort of grease\vasoline in there. I have spray silicone, dry graphite and 3 in 1 oil on hand, plus who knows what else. But can any one tell me what I need to lube it before I put it back together? The sooner I get it back together, the better. I have 10 small springs just waiting to get away. Thanks!! Lee
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#2
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_Anything_ is better than nothing.
Graphite is generally the best choice for locks exposed to the weather. But when you have it all apart I would start with a light grade machine oil (3-in-1 will do since you have it already) and then follow with graphite in a month or so. The 3-in-1 will work just as well as the graphite at first but will eventually drip off. Grease will work but will likely coat more of it on your keys and so I would avoid. The main reason grease is not recommended is that it is usually used on assembled locks and cylinders is that it does not have the penetration of oil. Since you have it dissassembled generally grease will work better and last longer but leave more of a mess. So I would stick with oil. |
#3
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I use 'Tri Flow', a teflon based lubricant. In a small black bottle. Bought it at a small hardware store.
Found it mentioned here about 1-1/2 years ago, supposedly used by locksmiths. Works great, freed up a totally non working passenger door lock, used it in all my locks, ignition, and whatever associated mechanisms I could get at. Seems to last about 6 months before re-application. |
#4
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One thing about grease or oil is that any dust or lint that finds its way in will stick to the oil or grease, eventually forming "gunk". If dirt is involved it can actually be abrasive, contributing to wear of the moving parts. Graphite, being dry, doesn't tend to trap dust and such.
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1980 300 TD 1997 Dodge Pickup/Cummins 5.9 12-valve |
#5
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For grease this is true. But not for oil. This is why oiling is used on open moving parts on high precision manufacturing equipment. The oil runs off over time, carrying away the contaminants. Graphite is the best choice, but IMO not for disassembled equipment. It is a bit messy to say the least.
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#6
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For what it's worth, my locksmith says "never use graphite".
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=296386 |
#7
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Quote:
Personally I prefer oil to clear older locks then follow with a quick shot of graphite twice a year. This is for locks exposed to the weather. I've never seen the gumming problem before but then I use graphite sparingly. If you are in doubt then just use oil. It always works. |
#8
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Locksmith is correct
If you're gonna put graphite on a lock,Etc.
'Might as well speed up the process and use the coarsest jeweler's rouge you can find. [kinda like taking the valve cover off an engine...sprinkling sand over the valve train...'Slapping the cover back on. And wondering why you're having engine problems like "Nobody's Business" a couple of days later.]
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#9
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I'm gonna third, or forth this. Mine mentioned spray a bit of the lube of your choice in the lock every now and again. He specified wd-40.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#10
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I didn't use any lube as I assembled mine. I would add a drop of thin oil once it is all back together.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#11
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Quote:
There are a few things to keep in mind when using graphite:
I've been using graphite in my tumblers for almost 30 years now, and had some of the locks I use it with for nearly 20. It has never caused me any problems. As for the assembly lubricant question.. I won't recommend grease on any lock that will see cold temperatures. The grease could congeal and prevent the tiny internal tumbler parts from working as they should.
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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#12
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My locksmith also said "never use graphite". He recommended WD-40.
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Toblin '79 300D, "Liesel von Diesel", 235K I kid proofed the house....but they still get in |
#13
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Thanks for the replies, everybody. I put it all back together that night (without any oil except what the PB blaster left, but I dried the parts with a towel after toothbrushing them clean. I haven't put it back in the car yet, but the key still does not seem to want to turn. Maybe I put one of the tumblers in the wrong spot, but it's doing the same as before I took it apart. I was wondering if I just turned the lock a quarter turn to the left when I reassemble it if that would work (??) Anyway, I guess I'll be sending off for a new one. I pretty much mangled the cover before I found the "easy" way to get in there. Somebody mentioned that you can call the dealer and have one made to fit your key when you had replacement keys made. It hurts to even imagine what the dealer wants for that!
__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#14
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Quote:
WD-40 is _the_worst_ thing that you can use on moving parts. |
#15
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Bummer. If the leaves do not all line up after it is all cleaned up you may need a new key or tumbler. I would guess the tumbler is around $60 from the dealer.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
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