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#1
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No Start - Audio
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4pypEfB4bc
My hunch is that air in the system is causing this, considering that the car started running rougher about a week ago. (lots of vibration, only at idle, regardless of temperature, especially in reverse). The battery is fully charged. I let it glow for about 10 seconds. I changed the prefilter and pumped using the primer about 70 times. While priming, I noticed that each pump seemed to have a little less resistance than normal. The primer pump leaks anyway, so I ordered the updated style + new motor mounts just recently. Does this sound likely in the video? The only thing I was unsure about was that little clink noise. Is this normal? I ask mainly out of fear that it could be timing chain related. The car is at about 294,000 miles and I remember reading it should be replaced at 300,000. |
#2
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Sounds like you have a cylinder that is low on compression but that won't keep it from starting. When you pump and the pump starts doing less and less it could be a plugged fuel strainer or the small filter is dirty. I was working with a friend that had that problem and he finally pulled the screen in the tank and it was plugged up with algae.
To get it to run have someone pump the primer while you try to start it and it might start. The squeek sounds like a dry piston wall from sitting. Good luck Robert |
#3
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hey gox,
How many CCA do you have on that non-diesel battery, you want about 1000. is there any air in the system? Its kinda hard to tell since your original filter system has been crapped up. I would get a compression tester from harbor freight and test the compression in all cylinders with all injectors out. Although I doubt thats your problem because at the GTG your motor started pretty fast. The timing chain should be checked every 100K, if you have 300K on the original then I would replace it, you running on borrowed time. The chain isn't broken but it maybe badly stretched. Call Pierre he'll help you out with that.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#4
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Quote:
Got a fullsize duralast one with 850 CCA. Getting the main tank with a bottom feed back in will probably help...I'll work on that tomorrow. (Sure is nice to know someone on here that's seen my car before XD) |
#5
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glad you replaced the battery. So thats not the problem.
At the GTG your car did fire up pretty fast so like I said I doubt its a compression or timing chain issue(its still good idea to replace the chain since it 300K). What do you mean the main tank and bottom feed back in?? Don't tell me you have aux tank in the trunk. If you do rip all that out. if it still won't crank remove each injector line one at a time and see if diesel comes out when you try to start the motor. Did you ever get a MB fuel filter thing from Pierre?
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#6
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Tank is back in.
New/Updated primer pump is in. Still won't fire I cracked the #1 injector. The injector itself had fuel in it. While cranking, the metal delivery line was doing a little drip every half second or so. Should this be a continuous squirt? Also nothing seem to come out of the line with use of the primer pump. Maybe I should press down on the primer, cover the delivery line with my thumb, and release? (for each of the metal lines). Also getting some white smoke from the front every time I try to crank (if that means anything). Still using a racor filter as opposed to the primary one right now. |
#7
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your going to need more than a drip to pop the injectors to make the car run. I 'd that that the veggy oil did its job, clogged your IP Not having the MB filter did help much either.
Before you go replacing the IP put my filter housing on and see if that helps. Check your PM.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#8
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Well the car hasn't been run on veggie in the time that I've owned it. (about a year). It has also been a year (8000 miles) since I adjusted the valves.
Ah, there's another detail I forgot to mention. Like I said in my first post, the car started vibrating a little more violently when out of drive the week before this happened. Bad motor mounts are a known issue, but I also decided to try adjusting the rack dampner bolt. I adjusted it one or two days before I first had the no start issue. It seemed to be all the way in and loosening it didn't change much. Is it possible I could've messed something up by messing with it? |
#9
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is the crappy fuel filter you have now clogged? Something is starving the car of fuel.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#10
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Quote:
No luck. Did some more research and I'm thinking that there's air in the IP. If so, I don't think I did enough cranking to bleed it. Also didn't think to put the pedal to the floor while doing so. I'll try and get a friend to help me with this today, bleeding each hard line. |
#11
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thats probably your problem. I'll get the housing and cover out tomorrow, I had to let the housing sit out to dry before I could ship it.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#12
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Do not use your thumb to cover anything coming off of the IP. You can have fuel injected into your flesh. That has killed people, and has cause serious injury. Going to the lift pump is a different story...it is low pressure.
Now, have you tried doing a "diesel purge" with the return and supply lines in a gatorade bottle filled w/diesel? If the car fires, you will need to check all your filters for clogging and check all the fuel lines for cracks. Also you will need to check the venting on the fuel tank.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#13
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Quote:
Fuel system is back to stock with a new filters. (Thanks again for the filter housing Mercy) At this point I fear the issue is IP related. While using the hand primer, fuel comes out right after the lift pump, as well as at the return hose. Nothing comes out of the hard lines while cranking though. I ran a diesel purge last Spring, but I could do so again if the stuff might be able to help the IP. However, I don't think it will start from the gatorade bottle either....maybe simply priming diesel purge into the IP will make a difference? Some other possibilities come to mind... -Is it possible for the shutoff valve to become stuck in the off position despite the vacuum line being disconnected. -Could I have messed something up by adjusting the rack damper bolt? |
#14
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is there any diesel going into the IP?
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#15
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Yep...I didn't check at the hard plastic line RIGHT before the IP (b/c it's hard to get on/off), but I have diesel going into the brand new (full) filter from the lift pump.
It seems that I'm getting fuel at injectors 5, 4, and I think 3. (the ones closer to the firewall that is). I cracked the injectors and wrapped some paper towels around them to detect wetness. #2 and #1 are dry though. Keep cranking? |
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