winterizing my 300D - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

babymog · #16 10-20-2008, 12:56 PM

Blizzaks are old news, and IMO mediocre snow & ice tires. Nokian are great tires, corner as well as stopping, and don't have a hard-rubber core when the tires are only 40% worn like old Blizzaks. I've been very happy with Michelin and Dunlop studless ice tires also.

#17 10-20-2008, 01:07 PM

Just siping your tires can make a big difference in snow and rain.

winmutt · #18 10-20-2008, 01:15 PM

I recommend the purple wire modification.

Jeremy5848 · #19 10-20-2008, 01:34 PM

In my experience, block heaters should be ON for about four hours minimum. OTOH, leaving the block heater ON all the time not only eliminates the need for a timer but means that the car will be ready to go in the middle of the night, should some emergency crop up.

Magoo · #20 10-20-2008, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

get the heated headlight lenses!

??:d

winmutt · #21 10-20-2008, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magoo

??:d

I mean if you really want to prepare your benz for a *real* winter.

Hatterasguy · #22 10-20-2008, 06:23 PM

I "winterize" mine by changing the oil, fuel filters, filling the tank, putting on some junk tires, and slipping it into the garage under its cover. In April it comes out and has no trouble starting.

xnetcrash · #23 10-20-2008, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2.5Turbo

While anti-gel additives may help in very cold climates, the temperatures in Atlanta shouldn't ever dip below the point that you would need it

I don't need it here in the south but where he is located he might need it.I lived for many years in Europe where -5 to +5 degrees Celsius is normal for a winter, and in that temperature without additive, good battery and glow plugs you can forget the diesel. My father had an old 1980 MAN bus and before he would go to work every morning it took him about a good half hour with a torch and a lot of diesel starter spray to start the diesel engine. But that was a old engine type, but still german.

Anyway my point is if you need additive , use it if not, then don't.

alphadeltaromeo · #24 10-20-2008, 10:41 PM

With all the very practical suggestions already, I'd also suggest using a trickle charger to keep the batt's fresh and warm. As an example:

http://store.sundancesolar.com/trchforcatrr.html

That would allow you to be off the grid for keeping the batt's conditioned. Keeping them warm would be a real positive for cold starting.

Andy

awsrock · #25 10-20-2008, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alphadeltaromeo

With all the very practical suggestions already, I'd also suggest using a trickle charger to keep the batt's fresh and warm. As an example:

http://store.sundancesolar.com/trchforcatrr.html

That would allow you to be off the grid for keeping the batt's conditioned. Keeping them warm would be a real positive for cold starting.

Andy

Idea! Do you think this could conceivably power the block heater if there was a way to rig an outlet source to the panel? I have a fantasy of being able to run the heater without plugging in (I can't- at an apartment WITH OUTLETS but for liability reasons I can't have a cord running across the sidewalk

)
I'm guessing that the heater needs more power than this could make though. I don't know very much about electricity at all, so sorry if that sounds like a really dumb idea.

derburger · #26 10-20-2008, 11:51 PM

I suppose you could add this folding solar panel from Harbor Freight to the parcel shelf and park the car in the sun. The solar panels could charge a car battery in the trunk during the day, and you could wire the car battery to the block heater with a timer to run it for a few hours during the night. I'm no electrician but it seems like it could work. Correct me if I'm wrong. It probably wouldn't provide enough "juice" for the block heater to run long.

Here's my practical idea, that I might try out, as I'll replace my aging battery before the winter. My idea is a portable block heater battery box. I would keep my old battery instead of returning it as a core. I could get a rolling toolbox with a long handle that would house the battery, a trickle charger for the battery, a timer for the block heater, and an inverter for the block heater, and mount them in the toolbox.

It would be self-contained, except to reset the timer, with 2 plugs in/out, a plug going in to charge the battery, and a plug going out to the block heater. Everything would be inside the toolbox housing so it would remain safe from the elements. It could be rolled inside or where ever outlets are to charge during the day, and rolled out at night and attached to the block heater, It could run the block heater for a few hours, I suppose, depending on how many batteries. It could be attached to the car with a lock to the tow hook so no-one could easily take it.

Since my car will remain outside this winter, I would like to use the block heater, but I can't run cords anywhere. This is where a portable block heater battery cart makes sense. I'll have to see how much the block heater draws, and if this is possible using old diesel batteries or maybe more batteries in series.

You could even add 2 or more batteries, since it could be easier as a rolling box.
Example rolling box.

Suggestions on my crazy idea? Practicality?

awsrock · #27 10-21-2008, 08:52 AM

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=208379&highlight=block+heater+draw

So it looks like the trickle charger won't be enough to run the block heater, since they use anywhere between 325-500w, but I think you are on to something with the battery set up! I'd like to see how that works out if you decide to do it. The link is a discussion about how much draw the heaters use.

tobybul · #28 10-21-2008, 10:01 AM

If anything, make sure your coolant mix is correct. You can do all of the above but if the coolant freezes in the jackets - goodbye engine!!

I did not quite get what being in the city has anything to do with using a block heater. I would view having a block heater as added protection.

IMHO, in order of priority (assuming everything in the engine is in good working order), I would make sure of the following:
- coolant (proper mix)
- lighter weight or synthetic motor oil
- monovalve works (if you want heat)
- good battery

For me the other stuff is optional (valve adj, GP, etc). If your car is running fine, the less you mess with it.....

Graplr · #29 10-21-2008, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awsrock

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=208379&highlight=block+heater+draw

So it looks like the trickle charger won't be enough to run the block heater, since they use anywhere between 325-500w, but I think you are on to something with the battery set up! I'd like to see how that works out if you decide to do it. The link is a discussion about how much draw the heaters use.

I used this one all last winter- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44768

I didn't notice it help any but I was going most of the winter without my valves adjusted properly which probably caused my rough starting more than anything. It is only 1.5W. (And my valves are adjusted properly now!

) But I got it for $9 and figured it couldn't hurt anything. If I were serious about keeping the battery topped off I would get a larger one.

In order to run my block heater I would need roughly 200 of these. Harbor Freight also sells a 45W panel for $250. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90599
I would only need 8-10 of them to run the block heater!

Graplr · #30 10-21-2008, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

If anything, make sure your coolant mix is correct. You can do all of the above but if the coolant freezes in the jackets - goodbye engine!!

I did not quite get what being in the city has anything to do with using a block heater. I would view having a block heater as added protection.

IMHO, in order of priority (assuming everything in the engine is in good working order), I would make sure of the following:
- coolant (proper mix)
- lighter weight or synthetic motor oil
- monovalve works (if you want heat)
- good battery

For me the other stuff is optional (valve adj, GP, etc). If your car is running fine, the less you mess with it.....

I don't know if I agree with your order. I think #1 is properly adjusted valves. I had a good battery and glow plugs last winter but had a rough time starting. Turns out my valves were improperly adjusted (didn't find this out until spring). I had trouble starting it without being plugged in for any reasonable amount of time below freezing. This morning my temp gauge on my car read -1C. It turned over and started in a fraction of a second. (Valves to spec now)