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  #1  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:22 PM
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How likley is the old vacuum pump to fail?

I've been taking a closer look at my oil leak, and it looks like the vacuum pump gasket is leaking. It is an old style pump and I understand that these go out. How likely is it to happen, just trying to justify $330 investment into the new pump.. Or should I just re seal the old one?

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  #2  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:25 PM
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If you haven't read the threads on the OM603 vacuum pump failure you really need to. The original vacuum pump has an open ball bearing that can fail, dumping metal into the timing chain cavity. People have wrecked engines that way. Definitely replace the pump. $300 is cheap compared to an engine rebuild.
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #3  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:25 PM
ForcedInduction
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On your CDI?

User CP > Edit Signature
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  #4  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKCDI View Post
I've been taking a closer look at my oil leak, and it looks like the vacuum pump gasket is leaking. It is an old style pump and I understand that these go out. How likely is it to happen, just trying to justify $330 investment into the new pump.. Or should I just re seal the old one?
Kindly read and understand the following post prior to posting again on this forum:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=127342
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2008, 11:48 AM
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It's for my 1987 300D.

Also thank you for the link Brian, I did not know there is a part specific links there.

However, sometimes if the forum becomes very extensive , people start to post less and less and just read the archives it Will eventually become a graveyard
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  #6  
Old 10-21-2008, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
If you haven't read the threads on the OM603 vacuum pump failure you really need to. The original vacuum pump has an open ball bearing that can fail, dumping metal into the timing chain cavity. People have wrecked engines that way. Definitely replace the pump. $300 is cheap compared to an engine rebuild.
OK, looks like I have to bite the bullet then... I will be ordering many parts today, and start disassembling the front tomorrow.
I am guessing the fan clutch unscrews clockwise correct?
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2008, 11:55 AM
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Any other suggested repairs while I am down there?
The water pump is leaking just a smige, should I reseal it? Or is it prone to failure too? (it does have a wrong antifreeze in it-green) I will be changing that with this:
I assume this is the correct antifreeze

http://www.***************/search/imageexpand.aspx?imageurl=../secure/PartImages/Q1030002.jpg

Also can someone please tell me MB part number for transmission fluid

Last edited by BLACKCDI; 10-21-2008 at 12:04 PM.
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  #8  
Old 10-21-2008, 12:04 PM
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That's the right stuff; should be gold in color. Make sure you flush that green cr@p out really well and consider doing a citric acid flush before filling with the MB coolant. There are many useful threads on here that outline the procedures for doing a citric flush.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k
2000 E430 - 103k
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k
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Pre-glow - A moment of silence in honor of Rudolph Diesel
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  #9  
Old 10-21-2008, 12:06 PM
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Yes, the 8mm Allen head cap screw has a standard right-hand thread – it unscrews counter-clockwise, "left," as you say. You will need to hold the pulley in some manner while doing this. There are special factory tools and many people here have fabricated substitutes.

I myself use the serpentine belt as a sort of "strap wrench" while using a standard L-shaped 8mm Allen wrench with a 2-foot length of 1/2-inch iron pipe as a come-along. It is possible to remove the fan without first removing the radiator. The Allen wrench is a tight fit but in my '87, at least, it fits. Some people cut the short leg of the Allen wrench even shorter to make it fit better. If you are removing the radiator anyway, best do that first.

The "main link" is here. Specifically applies to the OM603 engine.

Another link applies to the OM606 engine but there is some resemblance to the OM603 and the pictures are good here.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #10  
Old 10-21-2008, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.5Turbo View Post
That's the right stuff; should be gold in color. Make sure you flush that green cr@p out really well and consider doing a citric acid flush before filling with the MB coolant. There are many useful threads on here that outline the procedures for doing a citric flush.
Great!
I don't have the manual and I looked through the archives already, but can't seem to find the quantinys for cooling system, engine oil and tranny oil. I will be changing these, can someone post what each one takes?
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  #11  
Old 10-21-2008, 12:17 PM
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Cooling system – about 2 gallons. I used a gallon of MB coolant (about $20) and a gallon of distilled water. Rinsed with tap water first, didn't do a citric acid flush.
Engine oil – 8 quarts. Type of oil is a very personal thing (let's NOT start another "oil thread"). At a minimum, make sure it's diesel rated.
Transmission oil – I used 6 or 7 quarts when I last did a change, as I recall, after draining both the pan and the torque converter.
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #12  
Old 10-21-2008, 12:23 PM
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this will become very useful to you: http://www.w124performance.com/service/Main.html
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  #13  
Old 10-21-2008, 07:14 PM
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There is no reason to remove the fan for a vac-pump R&R, I did my '87 with it on. Remove the belt and wrap it around the fan shroud, you'll be fine.

Check the belt tensioner pulley and arm for play. With the tensioner off BTW, the vac-pump is really easy.
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  #14  
Old 10-21-2008, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKCDI View Post

However, sometimes if the forum becomes very extensive , people start to post less and less and just read the archives it Will eventually become a graveyard
That will never happen..........trust me on this. We simply request that members attempt to educate themselves just a bit before posting. It's very difficult to start a new fellow from the very beginning.........but, it's relatively easy to guide him if he's already obtained the basic knowledge of the system and how it functions.
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  #15  
Old 10-21-2008, 10:21 PM
lrg lrg is offline
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Quote:
There is no reason to remove the fan for a vac-pump R&R, I did my '87 with it on. Remove the belt and wrap it around the fan shroud, you'll be fine.
Ditto.

Note the discussion in the related threads about the injection pump timing cage. If it's there you can just remove it but I'd recommend you save it for future use just in case.

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