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  #1  
Old 10-23-2008, 03:06 AM
Turbotojo's Avatar
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Where to drill and tap oil system

Hi there again. I am fitting a centrifugal oil cleaner and need to know where to get oil from before it goes into the filter. I know the OM617 already has a bypass filter built in with the full flow filter but I need extra filtration that you can only get from a centrifuge.
So if anyone has some idea of the best place to drill and tap for a fitting it would be appreciated. I was thinking of the back cover where the oil pressure gauge pipe comes out but I don't know if that is before or after filtration.
Unless I drill a hole into the block????

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  #2  
Old 10-23-2008, 03:38 AM
ForcedInduction
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Anywhere on the side of the filter housing or lid (except the very top center) will be pre-filter oil at system pressure.
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2008, 06:47 AM
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I thought so. I was hoping there might be a plug or fitting that can be removed like on Toyota Diesels. But there is nothing.
I have drawings of the oil filter housing showing all the bits in there like the thermostat and so on. Would the thermostat ever need changing?
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Stroked 2L-TE powered S123. Now there's a thought.
'lieber tot als schwung verlieren'
Ölpreis-Schock: Diesel-Fahrer haben keinen Kostenvorteil mehr

MAN 26.463 DFLS Tipper truck and Dog--Daily driver.... Traded in
Toyota LJ78--Wifes car.... Traded in
MB 300TD--My baby.... still alive
Toyota HJ60 Sahara--unfinished project.... scrapped
MB 300D x2--Spare parts
WV Jetta 2.0L TDi Pumpe Düse
Peugeot 307 Touring 2.0L HDi common rail
Now working at Weatherford
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2008, 08:09 AM
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What about the oil cooler lines - are they pre or post filter?
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2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
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  #5  
Old 10-23-2008, 08:48 AM
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oil cooler lines are pre-filter, but they are only 'in-play' when the thermostat is open.
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  #6  
Old 10-23-2008, 09:49 AM
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The filter housing lid would seem to be a good choice. Plenty of metal, easily removed, and easily replaced if there is an "accident." Where is the return going?
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  #7  
Old 10-23-2008, 10:03 PM
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Here is where I put my Low Lube Oil Pressure Alarm Sending Unit. You need to check the underside of the Oil Filter Lid to avoid drilling into one of the metal casting webs. The area I drilled into is before the oil is filtered.


Comment: I do not see why you want to draw the oil before it goes through the Oil Filter. If you get the oil after it is filtered you will not have to clean the centrifuge as often.
If you want to tap into some oil after it is filtered you can go under the car and remove the Banjo Bolt (fitting) that hold on the Turbo Charger Oil Feed Tubing. Ounce the Banjo bolt is out you can drill and tap it, install your hose fitting and put it back on with new crush washers.

Also how about some pics of the centrifuge and the cost of the unit.
Here is another place you can tap into if you want to use oil that is already filtered (this where my bypass oil system gets its oil from). I put the Oil filter Cap in my Lathe so it drilled in the center.
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2008, 02:17 AM
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The idea of the centrifuge is to get most of the soot and crap out before it goes into the filter so you can leave that in a bit longer as the price of a new one here in the land down under is about $45 retail. The centrifuge doesn't cost anything to clean and is way better than a toilet paper filter that quite a few people seem to like.
I have one fitted on my truck and it works a treat. I change the oil in that every 500hrs and the centrifuge every second oil change and even then it's not full. As for the lid, I have 2 spare cars so I can do that. It only needs a very small diameter hose to keep the pressure high.
I will post some photos and info on the centrifuge. there are also a few sites on the net where people use them to clean vegie oil for fuel production. very interesting stuff. i am going to build a mini oil recycling plant so that I can reuse used motor oil mixed with diesel.
__________________
Stroked 2L-TE powered S123. Now there's a thought.
'lieber tot als schwung verlieren'
Ölpreis-Schock: Diesel-Fahrer haben keinen Kostenvorteil mehr

MAN 26.463 DFLS Tipper truck and Dog--Daily driver.... Traded in
Toyota LJ78--Wifes car.... Traded in
MB 300TD--My baby.... still alive
Toyota HJ60 Sahara--unfinished project.... scrapped
MB 300D x2--Spare parts
WV Jetta 2.0L TDi Pumpe Düse
Peugeot 307 Touring 2.0L HDi common rail
Now working at Weatherford
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2008, 02:21 AM
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I might start a new thread on the centrifuge.....Soon..........
__________________
Stroked 2L-TE powered S123. Now there's a thought.
'lieber tot als schwung verlieren'
Ölpreis-Schock: Diesel-Fahrer haben keinen Kostenvorteil mehr

MAN 26.463 DFLS Tipper truck and Dog--Daily driver.... Traded in
Toyota LJ78--Wifes car.... Traded in
MB 300TD--My baby.... still alive
Toyota HJ60 Sahara--unfinished project.... scrapped
MB 300D x2--Spare parts
WV Jetta 2.0L TDi Pumpe Düse
Peugeot 307 Touring 2.0L HDi common rail
Now working at Weatherford
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2008, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Here is where I put my Low Lube Oil Pressure Alarm Sending Unit. You need to check the underside of the Oil Filter Lid to avoid drilling into one of the metal casting webs. The area I drilled into is before the oil is filtered.


Comment: I do not see why you want to draw the oil before it goes through the Oil Filter. If you get the oil after it is filtered you will not have to clean the centrifuge as often.
If you want to tap into some oil after it is filtered you can go under the car and remove the Banjo Bolt (fitting) that hold on the Turbo Charger Oil Feed Tubing. Ounce the Banjo bolt is out you can drill and tap it, install your hose fitting and put it back on with new crush washers.

Also how about some pics of the centrifuge and the cost of the unit.
Here is another place you can tap into if you want to use oil that is already filtered (this where my bypass oil system gets its oil from). I put the Oil filter Cap in my Lathe so it drilled in the center.
Is your oil pressure Hot? or Cold? engine idling or reved up?

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #11  
Old 10-24-2008, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Is your oil pressure Hot? or Cold? engine idling or reved up?

Charlie
The pressure on the Pic with the guage is right after I started the cold engine at an idle seed of aprxomately 750. (30wt oil and 197,000 miles on the engine.)
When I reved up the engine hot or cold my maximum pressure is 97psi.
I do not remember what it went down to when hot at idle with the big guage in the pic but I show 1.5 bar on the Dash Board Gauge.
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  #12  
Old 10-24-2008, 09:12 PM
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Thanks, I didn`t realize the pressure was that high. I thought maybe 60 max. I`ll have to install one to see where we are at.

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #13  
Old 10-25-2008, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Thanks, I didn`t realize the pressure was that high. I thought maybe 60 max. I`ll have to install one to see where we are at.

Charlie
If you have the CD manual look in the part that describes how the Oil Pump Relief Valve functions. They give a pressure that is over 100psi.
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  #14  
Old 10-25-2008, 04:25 AM
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secret men's business
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Moodlu, Australia
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High pressure is needed for the centrifuge as it will take some of that pressure away from the system. The valve inside opens at about 2 bar and the oil needs to be hot!
__________________
Stroked 2L-TE powered S123. Now there's a thought.
'lieber tot als schwung verlieren'
Ölpreis-Schock: Diesel-Fahrer haben keinen Kostenvorteil mehr

MAN 26.463 DFLS Tipper truck and Dog--Daily driver.... Traded in
Toyota LJ78--Wifes car.... Traded in
MB 300TD--My baby.... still alive
Toyota HJ60 Sahara--unfinished project.... scrapped
MB 300D x2--Spare parts
WV Jetta 2.0L TDi Pumpe Düse
Peugeot 307 Touring 2.0L HDi common rail
Now working at Weatherford
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  #15  
Old 10-25-2008, 04:54 AM
ForcedInduction
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Then soldering a T fitting into the hot oil cooler line is the way to go. Welding a fitting into the lower oilpan would be the easiest way to add an unrestricted gravity drain.

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