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#1
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Injector pump adjustment
hey guys. my mileage went up after rebuilding my injectors and adjusting my valves, but in order to make high 20s i still need to advance my injector pump and adjust my cam timing with the proper wooddruff key. i just need to know where the mounting bolts for my injector pump are and which way to turn it to advance it? a quick response would be greatly appreciated.
also i need to put my ALDA back on but i forgot the configuration for the vaccuum lines...correct me if i am wrong, but i think it goes from the intake to the top of the switchover, then from the switchover to the side input of the ALDA, then from the bottom output of the ALDA out into the rest of the vaccuum lines...thanks
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#2
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top of the pump towads the engine advances the timing. There are three nuts around the perimeter of the pumps mounting surface. left, right, and bottom (13mm)
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#3
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there is a 'sticky' in the top threads of this forum. It is the vacuum diagrams thread. Your vacuum layout is in there.
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#4
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is the mounting surface towards the front of the engine where the chain drive is?
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#5
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the nuts are on the same side as the pump, the are on the pump casting.
'mountig surface' - the part of the pump body that is formed to meet the block. |
#6
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right on thanks for your help
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#7
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directly behind the fuel filter in this picture
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#8
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how do you go about rotating it with the injector hardlines in place?
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#9
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I loosened them, my injectors are out.
I would imagine it would be a nightmare with them in place, and teh force from a long bar on your IP is not a good idea. I curse enough as it is |
#10
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so the lines will be tweaked a little bit? ive only managed to get one of the bolts loose i have no idea how i will get to the other ones.
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#11
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on the inside bolt b/w the block and IP, there is tight tolerance. A 3.5 - 4 inch length from your ratchet end to the tip of your socket will work perfectly. If your ratchet has a small head and small degrees of ratcheting increments.
the nut on the bottom is easily accessible by a gearwrench or standard combo. |
#12
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ya that is the one i am pondering. i have plenty of extensions...its just i have a hard enough time not dropping stuff in between the block and the ip let alone actually trying to get something in there. just as long as i know nothing has to be removed from the ip.
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#13
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lines will have to be adjusted. they bend.
Marking your current setting on the IP in relation to the block is a good precaution. no one is perfect. |
#14
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Quote:
have you read the material on this timing procedure? which method are you using? there are elements of the pump that must be removed depending on method. check the DIY articles before you loosen the IP if you havent already read them or have the FSM |
#15
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i am using the drip method
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