|
|
|
|
|
#31
11-24-2008, 10:05 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
From what I have gathered from reading a variety of sources, the valve body halves are secured by two screws, apparently accessed from the upper side. The key to avoiding disaster, from all indications, is to remove the screws with the valve body right side up, then turn it upside down before separating, ensuring that the separator plate remains attached to upper half of the valve body, which is now on the bottom. 
|
|
#33
11-24-2008, 10:57 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#34
11-24-2008, 04:35 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
i was being facetious
 the one thread i linked to showed that the person who separated the two halves lifted the top piece off and then the balls fell out. apparently you should turn it over, undo the two halves and then lift the now bottom part up.but yes, no need to separate the valve bodies from each other to do K1, K2 and B1
|
|
#35
11-24-2008, 04:52 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#37
11-24-2008, 10:02 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The plate that seperates the two halves has telltale marks in it that indicates where a ball was, so if you do mess up its not too huge a deal.
You want to remove the valve body, remove the 2 screws holding the halves together(from the top) then hold it together while flipping it over, setting it so that the bottom of the valve body is facing up. Then you can pull the bottom of the valve body off and do your work.
__________________
 86 420SEL (sold) 85 380SE(in the graveyard)
|
|
#38
11-25-2008, 04:17 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I went ahead and installed the rest of the spring kit. As I had suspected, I should have left "well enough" alone. After initially installing the large K1 accumulator spring and small K2 accumultor spring, my transmission shifted quite well. The 2-3 flare was completely eliminated. The only minor complaint was that the 1-2 shift was a bit firm.
After installing the remiander of the kit, the 1-2 is way late and much harder than before. The 2-3 is about right, and the 3-4 shift won't happen until about 45 mph. I suppose the next step is to uninstall everything except the originally installed springs. I just hope that will restore the previous performance and that removing/opening the valve body has not caused undesired consequences.
|
|
#39
11-25-2008, 06:05 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Tango,
When you say "rest of the kit", do you mean the B1 accumulator springs? It is supposed to soften out the 1 to 2, iirc as i dont have the manuals in front of me. Did you check your vac pressure on the transmission vac line? If its softening of the shift you need, try turning the transmission modulator a full CCW turn (softens). I've tweaked mine back up to firmer shifts (CW) after I cleaned out the overboost solenoid (vac transducers is the official name) and the other vac transducer near the strut
|
|
#40
11-25-2008, 06:52 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Initially, with the valve body still installed, I had replaced the K1 accumulator spring with the purple spring and installed the shorter, blue spring in the K2 accumulator spring train. The results then were very good; the 2-3 flare (which was the major problem) was gone and the 2-3 & 3-4 shift quality was excellent. It's when I tried to go from 'very good" to "perfect" that things went downhill. The vacuum levels at the vacuum control valve are 15" at idle, 5.5" with the test disk installed. I have 23" at the pump.
|
|
#41
11-27-2008, 02:19 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I'm contemplaing the Superior kit because of a hard 1-2 shift and almost simultaneous 2-3 and 3-4 shifts under light throttle. It's in 4th before 40 mph under light throttle but no flaring. It's actually not so bad since the engine has enough torque but I don't think this 722.3 was designed to emulate a Powerglide. With more pedal, 1-2 firmness is more acceptable (not actually softer) and 2-3 and 3-4 spacing... well, there is perceptible spacing and it seems right.
I can install the whole kit but I hate to introduce a lot of variables. I'm looking for support to do step 6, maybe step 7 and maybe step 8, and the 2-3 and 3-4 springs in the stacked 2-3 shift page. Any thoughts or counterpoints? If I follow this tack, do the upper and lower valve body have to come apart? Sixto 87 300D
|
|
#42
11-27-2008, 09:03 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#43
11-28-2008, 01:05 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I just got done installing the superior shift kit. I did the just the springs to make the 1-2 softer, 2-3 firm & 3-4 firm. The two springs for the B-1 came out in 7 pieces so my hard 1-2 shift cam be explained by that. I am going to use synthetic trans fluid and take it out on the road tomorrow and see what, if any, the improvements are. Will post with results. What I did on the kit took about an hour after I let the fluid drain for about an hour. The kit was easy but the directions could be better.
__________________
Chris Ventura, CA 78 240D 4 Speed- 169,200- Sold 84 300D Euro- 190,500 02 New Beetle TDI- 75,000- Sold 06 Liberty CRD- 95,000
|
|
#44
11-28-2008, 06:54 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I uninstalled many of the kit options today and finally have a transmission that shifts quite well. Left in place was the purple K1 accumulator spring, the short dark blue K2 accumulator spring and the "plain" B1 accumulator control valve spring.
Here are some lessons learned: The instructions furnished with the kit (or should I say the instructions that should have been furnished with the kit) are excellent in some ways and lacking in others. There are transmissions that do not fit squarely into either the early or late model definitions. When separating the upper and lower valve body assemblies, it is important that the separator plate not be allowed to slide. Inserting a couple of the valve body bolts "backwards" will keep the plate in place. After removing the two screws that hold the valve body together, flip the body upside down (hold together tightly) and then lift the lower portion (which is now on top)off of the upper half (now on the bottom), leaving the two through bolts in place (heads down) so that the separator plate cannot slip from its original position. Work in a clean, well lit and uncluttered area. Label all springs removed from the valve body. You might need to put them back where they came from if the kit springs don't work as anticipated. The small valve body screws are quite tight and it is easy the strip the slots with an ordinary, tapered screw driver blade. Hollow ground screwdrivers or bits work much better. (A gunsmith screwdriver kit is perfect.) Consider installing only the kit components that address the problems that you are experiencing. Attempting to fix problems that you don't have may result in new problems. The drawing in post #11 here http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1789037#post1789037 is invaluable if you need to (or inadvertantly ) remove the separator plate from the upper valve body. Expect several on the components to stick to the plate and/or "spring" free. Items 4,5 8 & 9 deserve particular attention. Except for item 4, which is a check ball seated on a spring, the remainder of the check balls are deeply recessed and should not move as long as the upper valve body remains flat. Torque the 15 valve body bolts to 8 Nm. Last edited by tangofox007; 11-28-2008 at 07:03 PM.
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
