hello i havent gone to school in weeks and me and my dad fell into a gutter last night while lifting the battry to put it to charge thats right for weeks we have been trying to start the car ever since i got a stupid idear of removing the injector pump the car is on the road of course now and things cant get any worst (i hope it wont) here is what i did
set pump to begin of delevery
then set camshaft to tdc after removing injector pump
then turn chank shaft with presure valve out and
watch fuel come out of injector line while slowly pumping hand pump to maintain presure
problem:
the fuel stops at about 180 degrees and again at a little pased tdc please consider and help our car has been on the road for 3 days hoping for a speedy reply

the engine timing should be 24 deg btdc when reinstalling the injection pump.the pump itself has marks on the spline that must lineup before you reinstall.

__________________
michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon

Dont forget to make sure its 24 degrees btdc on the compression stroke, dont ask how I know

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

the problem is i cant get it to 24 degrees because i use a protractor and its inaccurate i saw one of yellit's post's and if i read it correct is it possible to find the 24 degree mark with the drip methord what i need to find out is at what point does the cam have to be at and what point does the pump have to be at begin of delivery ? and another thing what is meant by cam lobes (borth cam lobes should be pointing up )and one last thing
is it possible that the crank shaft pulley is a protractor and has markings on it already becouse i saw this picture and thats sort of what it looked like so does this mean that i could get 24 degrees at crank shaft using the markings becouse i used super glue to glue a protractor on the camshaft nut (sort of stupid)
my camshaft cover is removed so its easy to see tdc ps i dont have a drip tube can i use an injector line please post back as soon as you can as this is my last day to work on the car and i just found out i was suspended from school
thanks

you need 24 degrees btdc at the crankshaft pulley.could be difficult to see or non existent due to grease and dirt.using a protractor on the camshaft would work but keep in mind the actual reading would be different because the cam makes 2 revolutions i beleive for 1 revolution of the crank

__________________
michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon

ok thanks Michel so on the crank shaft pulley there really are protractor like markings on it ar'nt there so now i only have to get it to 24 degrees btdc does every model have this or only 124 ect mine is a 1975 240D W115

You need to clean off and maybe take some sand paper to that balancer so you can see the numbers, 24 degrees should be visible then. You might consider listing your location as someone near by might pop over and give you a hand. If you didn't install your IP on the compression stroke (#1 cam lobes more or less up) you will be 180 out. I think I would pull the IP and make sure when you get the balancer cleaned up. My knowledge of the earlier 240Ds is really limited but I think what I told you does apply to your engine.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Speaking in general.
On most engines you will most often find the timing marks on the Crankshaft Damper/Pulley.
If not on the Crankshaft Damper/Pulley next common place is an opening to the rear of the Engine (often in the Bell Housing) where you can view timing marks stamped on the Fly Wheel (this is where they are on my Volvo).

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is a 2 part picture. The right side of the pic shows the numbers on my Mercedes Crankshaft Damper/Pulley. This will give you some idea where to look. If you need to do some cleaning down there to see the number be careful not to bend the pointer.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

here it is again i am begining to HATE THIS CAR yester day i got it right the timing found the timing marks and set to 24 degrees before tdc and cam lebe was pointing up yes but when the crank shaft was at tdc the camshaft was a little past the tdc mark is that ok maby becouse the chain streches so any way i did not have a drip tube so i did'nt quite get the drip test right and i cant find a drip tube where i live if i go to a car parts shop and say drip tube they'll be like what is that thanks folks

IMHO forget the drip tube for now not necessary to get the car running.you can fine tune later.with the basic adjustment 24 deg btdc and the injection pump set and properly installed you should be on your way

__________________
michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon

Like Michael said, if you installed the IP at the right place, it should start. Do you have the option of a "tow start"? She should go. Good luck

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

i sort of have a new problem i reset the camshaft and crankshaft timing now its accurate but then the fuel which has to stop at 24 degrees before tdc stops at 10 degrees does this mean that my injector pump timing device is off timing a little too advanced ? do i have to remove the vacume pump and jump a few links at the timing device or is it because i haven't set the ip corectly all i did was jump a couple of links off the camshaft

What it means is that you're close on IP timing but still 14 degrees late. The pump needs to be reset by one tooth (advanced).

Forget about the IP timer.........it's not your issue.

your best bet is to remove pump, not vacum pump. That gear should NOT be that easy to move on the chain. Your very close in your adjustment, only one tooth off actually I'll bet.

It's a tricky thing to learn especially when you need the car. Once you learn how to time them, it becomes second nature. It doesnt take much to bump or misalign the splines on the pump. Took me a few times my first time, and I was in a warm garage working on a car I didnt need.