I just bought a 1982 240D with an auto trans. This car has been sitting for five years. The exhaust is rusty along with the brake calpiers and rotors. I know I'll need to take care of the above along with tires and a fog light.

What else do I need to really look at before I start driving this thing???

This car is going to be my primary ride as my '78 240D (374,890 miles) is getting really tired.

Do you mean literally 5 years without a "Start"?

EDIT: with leathermangs kind suggestions.


1.Take the injectors out and squirt some "KROIL" into each
prechamber (4 ounces each)let the engine "SIT" 48 hrs.
Then try to turn the engine by HAND.'Socket and Driver on the Crankshaft[Gently]
If successful,use starter to spin engine ten revolutions to blow out "Kroil" ...WITH THE INJECTORS OUT OF ENGINE.
(You might place a cloth over the injector holes to deal with the expellent)
1b.Reinstall Injectors with new heat shields.
1c.Test the Glow System.
2.Change all the fluids+Filters.(Oil,Tranny,power steering,brake,coolant)
2a.think about a NEW hand primer pump.
3.'Prime it ,GLOW,and see if SHE'LL AutoRotate.

Oh Yeah, Use the Mark One to inspect all the coolant hoses.
And the suspension.Adjust the Valves,(+All the usual Diesel Stuff)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

It's been started, just not moved, not even an inch. Thanks for the quick reply...............

I would put in a battery, check the water and oil and fire it off. Some biocide in the tank is a good idea too in case there is some water there. Fuel and air filters are a good idea but not essential if they look decent. Before driving it any distance I would change the oil and all air and fuel filters, but if just starting it to see how it runs I would just do the first sentence. The brakes might be ok as is, if no calipers are stuck. The pads will wear off the rust on the rotors if they aren't too rusty. It will make some fuss though since were the pads are probably is fairly rust free.

Good luck.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I think those should have been listed in the other order. You can break a stuck ring rotating it by hand...
So I suggest putting the KROIL or oil into the bore overnight before the first try at rotation.

I would also look at the valves before starting and note which are compressed... then if the engine is looking good replace those valves that sat in the compressed position for all that time.. they will be weaker than the rest of them... better chance of breaking or floating .

Ok.. after thinking about it further... I do not think you can get oil to where it needs to go by putting it into the prechambers... if you have an engine that looks valuable then you need to pull the prechambers and squirt the Kroil or oil into it.... at least an ounce to make sure it gets all around the piston and down to the rings.... some pistons have depressions on top which would hold some oil from getting to the bore walls.
The holes in the precombustion chamber are tiny and radially drilled... even if you put enough oil in there it would drain into the bore so slowly that if the car were not perfectly level it might go to one side of the piston to drain down...

I've spent all summer and fall returning my '83 240D to service. Replaced the exhaust, all rotors, all brake pads, front calipers and the hood (which had rusted through).
Gonna go for inspection today and see what he says.

Still on the list: Upper control arms (which includes ball joints) and rear shocks. Don't mess around with brakes, replace parts... I figure my whole brake job cost around $360 not including labor plus I now KNOW those parts are good.
I probably need tires but we'll see.

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Sadly Benz-less