The point that isn't clear to me is that you say the tensioner is working. I'm not familiar with the 617 tensioner but the 603 tensioner rail doesn't move perceptibly as you turn the crank manually. I don't know of any visual way to confirm the tensioner's working when it's in place. Again, based on 603 experience.

Sixto
87 300D

the tensioner doesnt actually do any REAL tensioning until there is oil pressure.

How did you install the tensioner? Is it a ratcheting type (does the piston retain its position in the body)?

it should have went like this:

with spring removed, and piston in the zero position, install tensioner assembly into block.

then install spring (this will provide the initial position for the tensioner)

Then carefully supply all the slack to the tensioning side so the tensioner can advance to the furthest setting allowed by the chain.

there should be no jumping of the chain in relation to any of its gears.

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it sounds the same.

you really can not tell. You can only hope that the spring is pushing the piston and ultimately the rail. You can hear it click foward if it is ratcheting.

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Sixto, are you sure about this?

I would think it was 'A' that he wnated to use. This advances the camshaft in the direction opposite the stretch. It removes length b/w the cam shaft radius and the crankshaft radius.

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I shouldn't have said anything. Each time I rationalize it in my mind I come up with a different answer

Sixto
87 300D

funny, thats why I asked you.

goog luck ZEKE.

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Well, I put it all back together......
First, I adjusted the IP timing - With the key in place, I rotated the pump about 1-2mm awy from the engine to get the proper drip rate.

Once I got fuel back into the system, she started right up. No smoke. Once I got all the leaks tightened down (replaced the braided return hose and one of the connections popped loose, and had a leak at one of the injector inlets), she ran pretty good. I notice that the hesitation I used to have when I put the throttle down and the lurching when I lift off of it are mostly gone. The engine seems more tightly coupled to the throttle movement.

The exhaust smells more like diesel now (I am running B100), rather than scorching cooking oil.

My only concern is that while the engine is noticeably quieter, there is a light clatter that sounds like valve clatter in a g@sser.

If I had put the key in the wrong way or skipped a tooth or something, would I have had as pleasant a drive as I did?

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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

Good Job!
Could the clatter be the fuel burning better now?
You could see if you can locate a specific area where the sound is coming from.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Zeke,

I've observed the chain behavior you observed in post 11 and the "popping" behavior reported in post 15, and I'm wondering how you dealt with it. Did you have to reverse the direction of the woodruff key before you got the car started? Which way did you install it, A or B? Was the chain still behaving as in posts 11 and 15 when you turned the engine over?

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'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k
'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k

"A" is the correct placement to remove stretch

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That's what I was thinking, but then I did the following thought experiment, and now I'm really confused.

1. The camshaft tower marks are lined up and the reading on the harmonic balancer is 4* ATDC.
2. Standing in front of the radiator, looking at the camshaft sprocket from the front, the offset key is installed in position A, with the flange on the left.
3. Once the sprocket is reinstalled, the timing mark on the washer behind the sprocket will be slightly above the timing mark on the camshaft tower, due to the displacement of the key.
4. If the engine is rotated until the timing marks line up again, it seems the harmonic balancer will display 8* ATDC. But if the key had been installed in position B, it seems the timing mark on the washer would be just below the mark on the camshaft tower, in agreement with the balancer's reading of 4* ATDC, which should not have changed during the procedure.

Also, there's this note on the woodruff key in the Fastlane store ( http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=&yearid=1978@@1978&makeid=63@@MERCEDES-BENZ@@63&modelid=6138%3AMBC|1489%3AED|10000129@@240D&keyword=key@@key&catid=All@@All&subcatid=P%3A240259@@Camshaft+Woodruff+Key&applicationid=W0133-1633924&mode=PA ):

At this point I'm unsure. Why do you say position A?

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'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k
'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k

New idea, in favor of A:

Consider the offset in terms of which way the camshaft rotates, assuming the sprocket remains steady. In position A, the camshaft is bumped in the direction of rotation, such that the timing mark on the outside of the washer slightly lags its initial position. In position B, the camshaft is bumped against the direction of rotation, such that the timing mark on the outside of the washer is ahead of its initial position.

Still confused as ever, though. Clarification?

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'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k
'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k

#3 is incorrect (if the crank does not move). The washer that holds the mark for referencing is notched to slide over the key. The only thing changing position in this instance is the camshaft itself. The sprocket and washer remain in the same position.

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Got it. I've been thinking that it's the camshaft sprocket that "moves," not the camshaft itself.

I installed my key in the dread position B. No wonder the thing won't start.

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'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k
'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k