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#1
12-28-2008, 06:13 PM
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1979 300D rack damper bolt adjustment
Good evening all, I need some relief from my car. Just finished 2 weeks ago a full engine swap with a very good engine from another 79' 300D. I should mention though that my Red 79' had a bad motor which was a 1980 block with low compression. It now has a 1979 block in it with very good compression. The injection pump is the one from the 1980 block and does NOT have the green sticker.
I am STILL having a problem with VERY slow acceleration from 0-10mph when car is cold. After car warms up completely and I stop at a traffic light, it wants to die and gradually has more problems idling in drive while stopped until it gets to the point where it will only move about 10 feet even while I'm flooring it before it dies. It seems like it is not getting enough or any fuel. What is done already: -totally clean fuel system with 3 brand new filters and auxiliary boost pump with a clean tank strainer, no moving bubbles in clear filter - clean air filter with no blockage - new glow plugs and relay - new priming pump with no signs of leakage - new injector nozzles bench tested good - checked length of idle pressure relief spring, good at 26 mm - new torque converter and transmission with no shifting, or flaring issues - has been running on pump diesel or B20 lately but was run on WVO for a few months on the old engine Engine idles strong in neutral or park and has decent power at highway speeds. It is slow to rev up however even in neutral and then sometimes acts like its going to runaway presumably because I have the idle set somewhat high with the cable to prevent it from dying on the way home. I went to go find my rack damper bolt to adjust it but to no avail. Where is it on this car? Not on the back of the IP like on my 1985 300D. What else could be the culprit? It seems I have narrowed my issue down to fuel injection by eliminating the much more difficult components (ie, new engine, torque converter, checked transmission). Does anyone have prolific advice for me? I promise I'll send you a twelve pack if you can get me moving here. Thanks and God bless. Brandon and Megan Oswald Pensacola, FL 1979 300D 1985 300D Turbo 
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#2
12-28-2008, 09:31 PM
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If your IP came from a car with not Turbocharger there is no Rack Damper Bolt on the IP.
Try putting on a longer Fuel Inlet hose and running the hose to a seperate can (like a 2.5 liter spare fuel can) of Fuel instead of your Fuel Tank. This will remove anything to the rear as a source of the problem.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#3
12-29-2008, 10:20 AM
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Separate fuel source
Diesel911,
I have already tried that though I did forget to mention it. Thank you for your response though. I really appreciate all that you put into this site (the extensive write-ups on timing and injection theory) and I hope you will be able to further advise me. Since I have no rack damper bolt, is there a different way for me to adjust the fuel rack position? Do you think this could be my problem? Thanks, Brandon Oswald
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#4
12-29-2008, 10:58 AM
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Reading through this, you didn`t mention if you adjusted the valves, check chain stretch, or timing.
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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#5
12-29-2008, 11:41 AM
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Only turbo engines have the rack damper.
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#6
12-29-2008, 02:25 PM
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No rack damper
I just got finished running a diesel purge and paying close attention to how the engine responded to throttle inputs. There are no bubbles in any fuel lines and I made sure the valves were adjusted again just to be sure.
After the engine was warmed up while still doing the purge I was revving it up and down when it began to just stay at idle speed (I'm guessing around 800- 1,000 rpm--no tach) no matter how much I pushed the pedal down. I let the engine just idle while I verified all my throttle linkages were hooked up correctly. They were and I began revving it again by hand this time while observing the linkages move. It will rev up usually but it's like there is a 2 second delay and then it is reluctant to come back down to idle. Sometimes though it will not respond at all to any throttle input. What gives? This inconsistency is driving me crazy since I feel like I can't diagnose the underlying issue. Is there any sort of adjustment I can do to the rack since I don't have the damper bolt? To the lift pump? Thanks, Brandon Oswald
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#7
12-29-2008, 02:28 PM
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Timing
Just to clarify: Valves are in spec, timing both on engine and injection pump are in spec, and chain stretch is extremely minimal. Entire fuel system was isolated again during the purge with the same results; therefore not a fuel supply issue before the lift pump.
Thanks, Brandon
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#8
12-29-2008, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Any chance that there is a problem with the Vacuum Shutoff getting Vacuum when it is not supposed to? Do the IPs for your car have an Altitude compensating device on the (Aneroid)? Maybe somthing wrong or plugged up.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#9
12-29-2008, 08:36 PM
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No other access
No, my shutoff valve is not the cause. I removed the vacuum line from it today while it was idling and then repeated the above maneuvers with the same outcome...that would have been too easy!!
I do have a round compensator on top of the aft section of the IP that looks like the ALDA from my 1985 300D. It has the same adjusting and locknut setup on top of the round chamber. Do you think I should play with that? Thanks for your time, Brandon
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