I recently went over the 200k mark on my '98 e300TD. I bought the car at 130k miles. I have done regular oil changes using Mobil1 0w-40. I have changed Glow plugs when needed (I'm up to three new ones since owning the car). Recently, I flushed the radiator (Although I couldn't get the block drain plug open). Fuel Filter, air filter have been changed.

Question is: What else? The car is getting old and I want to make sure I maintain it properly. I don't take it to the dealership because I don't trust them. I have read alot about delivery valves, o-rings, MAF cleaning, ERG cleaning, fuel injectors, etc. I haven't touched any of this stuff. Can I get advice on what I should be doing to keep this car running as long as it deserves?

I would suggest changing the power steering fluid, the transmission fluid and filter, and the differential oil.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Although my 606 is a bit less electronically regulated than yours, I feel that injector and injection pump wise, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. AFAIK the injectors on my '95 are untouched at 275,000, and, knock wood, my car runs great.

Fluid changes? Absolutely.

Rgds,
Chris W.

Ok. I'll get on those fluid changes. I do agree with the "don't fix it if it ain't broken". But the reason I mentioned injectors, MAF, ERG is because I notice a bit of hesitation while the car is cold. And I'm only talking mildly cold, like 35-40 F in the mornings. If i plug the block heater in the night before I don't get this hesitation. It runs fine, but there is definately something going on untill the car really warms up.
Also when I had the intake manifold off, the buildup in both the holes going into the engine block and the manifold itself are very gunked up. Any thoughts?

Do the fluid changes Jeremy mentioned. I wouldn't touch the MAF until it needed it. Too expensive. Trans fluid is propriatary to MB; use no other.

I'd also leave the DV's and other orings alone until they began leaking.

My inj's have never been out of the car. I may pop and rebalance them sometime soon.

Thee is a EGR delete thread on the forum if you want to disable the EGR and slow the buildup of crude. I've never felt it necessary.

You undoubtedly have some suspension bushings that are getting tired after 10 years.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Terry, I just read through an old Post titled "Replaced plastic lines on 606, still sucking air!".... I gotta say, man you know ur stuff. After reading that I am convienced I too have a problem with that o-ring at the pre-filter. I'm going to check that tonight. You and the other dude in that thread really helped him out. I'm experiencing the same hesitation from the car when it is cold. I bet it is sucking a tiny bit of air.... Is there any chance you can go back in your archives and get me that diagram that the guy was refering to where he mentions his fuel lines, #56, #72, etc? I wanted to follow along with that but the link he refered to no longer works.

Here is the EPC link for our turbo model 210.025. http://detali.ru/cat/oem_mb1.asp?TP=1&F=210025&VIN=

Go to section 07, then to fuel lines.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Perfect.. Thank you!